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Slhanay (The Squaw)
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Jungle Warfare 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Robin Barley, Kevin McClane ('83)
Season: Whenever it isn't raining
Page Views: 1,646
Submitted By: Drew Peterson on Feb 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Start of P1. Photo: Corey Gargano

Description 

This 4-pitch route is named the easiest multi-pitch climb on the Squaw (at 10a) and the crux is right in your face, right away. Bomber gear sets you up for a steep bulging crack (10a) that eventually leads to an easier crack up to a belay (5.8ish). There are Rap anchors to the right of the top of the first pitch where you can rap to the ground with one 60m rope.

Pitch 2: Follow the crack out left up past a bit of offwidth to a large tree on a good ledge. Belay here. 5.7

Pitch 3: Climb up the face cracks or the corner crack and then continue up a thin layback and above to the base of a right diagonal traverse. 5.9

Pitch 4: Make your way up the diagonal traverse, arond the corner, then back up diagonally left to the top. 5.6 Scramble up a bit more to the top.

Location 

Jungle Warfare is located about 50 feet to the right (south) of where the approach trail meets the bottom of the Squaw. A blocky start leads to a crack than then disappears around a corner. If you have to dramatically hike uphill, you've probably gone too far.

Protection 

Solid Squamish granite provides fine placements: Bring a large piece (#3 or 4) for the crux of the first pitch, the rest is mostly hands. I would encourage doubling up on .75's - 2's.


Photos of Jungle Warfare Slideshow Add Photo
Near top of pitch 4
Near top of pitch 4
Upper section of P1.   Photo: Corey Gargano
Upper section of P1. Photo: Corey Gargano
looking toward the Sound from top of pitch 2 or 3
looking toward the Sound from top of pitch 2 or 3
pitch 1
pitch 1
View from the top
View from the top

Comments on Jungle Warfare Add Comment
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By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
Aug 31, 2009

Good route. Solid and classic 5.8 cracks for most of the climb.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Jul 28, 2010

The first pitch was the most exciting. Pretty mellow and enjoyable after that, although the polished section on the 5.8 pitch got our adrenaline pumping again for a few minutes.

We did not take a #4 cam but wished we had as there seemed to be a place on every pitch where you'd want one.

See comment on Birds of Prey route for new descent information.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Oct 1, 2012

Pulling the steepness at the start is great fun. The rest of the pitches are worth going through but, not terribly exciting.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Anchor update: There is now a two-bolt anchor above the bulge, before the 5.7 handcrack part of pitch one. I suppose this was put in because, as I understand, many people break p1 into two because of rope drag after the initial cruxy section.

In addition, the tree that used to separate p1 proper from p2 has been chopped. This is the section right before the slippery polished bit of p2. While it's probably a good idea for route cleaning purposes, it's not exactly an ideal gear belay spot...there is a crack but it's kind of weird and uneven. I suppose to compensate for this, "somebody" stuck a staple around the corner. It's my opinion that if a new two-bolt anchor was to be included on this route, replacing the tree would be a better option than where the new anchor was placed. Trying to climb straight from the lower bolted anchor to the big tree was *not* a good idea. Despite placing few pieces, using slings liberally and downclimbing to unclip pieces, I experienced a level of rope drag in the offwidth bit unlike anything I've experienced. I was not happy about the state of things at this point. (Edit: Drew's description describes rap anchors to the right of the top of p1. If this is the case I just missed them.)

Great fun though, I was pleasantly surprised. I've heard this route trashed a lot, but there's tons of really fun climbing on beautiful stone. The first few pitches get a lot of shade too, which is great for those hot days. Would climb again. As fun as Rock On and Hairpin.

A bit confused by why all the topos split p3 and p4 into two with a gear belay. It seemed very natural to link them together, from the big tree to the bolts. Extend some pieces on the early hand crack, don't over-protect the upper traverse and it's an easy connection with a 60m. I wonder if you could link the upper 5.4 scramble as well with a 70m. Probably depends on whether you placed anything on the traverse.

I was surprised by how near the end of the route was to the anchor of p4. So surprised that I kept climbing. I don't recommend this. First opportunity to escape right (say, after 10m or so), do so. Just remember that, once you get into the woods, you have to hike up to walk out. Otherwise you'll be taking the gully descent.

Make sure to grab some blueberries from the bush sticking out from the top of the twin cracks of p3.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 1, 2014

First pitch was great. We split the first pitch proper into two pitches, belaying at the bolted belay to minimize any rope drag. I was happy to have a #4 camalot... plenty of places to place it.

We linked the 5.7 ramp to the 50' slab finishing pitch without any drag. Traverse off to climber's right from there.

Unless you want to do the old "Tunnel Descent", be sure to walk up about 200 yards once you traverse into the descent gully. The tunnel descent goes, but it isn't exactly pleasant... and probably a bit dangerous as those stacked blocks move.
By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 19, 2014

On the descent, after you traverse right off the climb into the woods, there is a very tempting, well traveled trail that appears immediately. We did not take this. We hiked up about 100 ft to meet the descent trail and followed it back down to the base, which was very easy and straightforward.