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Jungle Rot Slot
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Air China Flight 924 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Driver'sTest->Run for Cover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drivers Test S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flashing the Eave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Honey Dipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jungle Rot Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Paper Route, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rib Braiser S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Roofer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Roughneck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Screen Printer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snatch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stable Boy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Superman S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Telemarketer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Knight and Bruce Rohgaar |
| Page Views: | 1,916 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Wilson on Apr 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This route tackles the long ridge to the right of Coyote Certified.
The first pitch is mostly 4th class with the occasional 5th class move, and belays beneath the first of two pillars.
The second pitch climbs the pillars directly via good crack, and belays on the top of the second pillar. From here move the belay to a good ledge beneath the obvious face. Pitches 1&2 link with heinous rope drag.
Pitch three follows the discontinuous cracks pretty much straight up the face, taking any pro that's offered. Belay at a ledge, though it's tricky to set up the belay. At this point you can escape off right via ledges.
Pitch 4 can be broken into two pitches, which is best. First follow exposed but easy ledges left until the ledges end. A fifth class move of two puts you on a ledge at the bottom of a weird chimney/corner thing, with a crack going out the roof at the top. It's recommended that you belay here.
Weather or not you do, climb the opposition moves to the crack and follow it out the roof. Pulling around onto the face is the crux (awkward 5.8) then some easy moves lead through a notch to a bush. Belay off the bush.
The first pitch is mostly 4th class with the occasional 5th class move, and belays beneath the first of two pillars.
The second pitch climbs the pillars directly via good crack, and belays on the top of the second pillar. From here move the belay to a good ledge beneath the obvious face. Pitches 1&2 link with heinous rope drag.
Pitch three follows the discontinuous cracks pretty much straight up the face, taking any pro that's offered. Belay at a ledge, though it's tricky to set up the belay. At this point you can escape off right via ledges.
Pitch 4 can be broken into two pitches, which is best. First follow exposed but easy ledges left until the ledges end. A fifth class move of two puts you on a ledge at the bottom of a weird chimney/corner thing, with a crack going out the roof at the top. It's recommended that you belay here.
Weather or not you do, climb the opposition moves to the crack and follow it out the roof. Pulling around onto the face is the crux (awkward 5.8) then some easy moves lead through a notch to a bush. Belay off the bush.
Location
This route starts in the stream bed across from the chlorination plant. Look for a easy chimney/gully thing about 30ft right of where the buttress comes into the stream.
Descent: After the bush belay, walk down obvious ledges hugging the wall on your left. You'll come to a point where you can continue down ledges to a cliff, or scramble up some 3rd class rock and talus to your left. Climb the 3rd class over a ridge, then another, to a much more promising gully. follow this back to the main trail, passing close to The Appendage.
Descent: After the bush belay, walk down obvious ledges hugging the wall on your left. You'll come to a point where you can continue down ledges to a cliff, or scramble up some 3rd class rock and talus to your left. Climb the 3rd class over a ridge, then another, to a much more promising gully. follow this back to the main trail, passing close to The Appendage.
Protection
This is not a good route for the 5.8 leader, as it has tricky pro and somewhat poor belays. Take every protection opportunity, and be confident on quartzite trad to make this fun.
We brought double rack from 000 C3 to #5 Friend, with one #6 Friend, but forgot nuts. Recommended rack would be double rack to #3.5 friend, one set 4,5,6 friend, C3's and nuts. The #5 was particularly useful. No fixed anchors anywhere on the route. Lots of slings.
We brought double rack from 000 C3 to #5 Friend, with one #6 Friend, but forgot nuts. Recommended rack would be double rack to #3.5 friend, one set 4,5,6 friend, C3's and nuts. The #5 was particularly useful. No fixed anchors anywhere on the route. Lots of slings.
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