The first bolted line in El Potrero Chico. The route follows an obvious clean water streak just below a large bowl (watch out for loose rock). The first three pitches go at 9 to 9+ with run outs. The fourth pitch is the business. This takes off right from the belay at the top of the third pitch. It leads up through a small dihedral on thin moves(crux) and ends on easier rock into a small alcove (uncomfortable hanging belay). The fourth pitch will stretch your 60 m rope, so be careful about how the rope is run through the anchors. Jeff Jackson recommends this climb for a moonlight ascent in Mexico Rock.
This climb is located on the left side of La Selva. This route is accessed by a trail leading up to the left of the tin pavilion (this had been destroyed in a flood last time I was there in December 2004; it has since been rebuilt). The route is between Jungle Boy
(on the left) and Yankee Clipper
(on the right).
The route is protected by bolts that are widely spaced (particularly on the first two pitches). The bolt spacing is wide enough on these pitches that it is easy to get off route, so be careful. The anchors are fixed with chains at each belay. As with any climb on La Selva, be careful when pulling your rope after a rappel -- nothing sucks more then having to ascend a stuck rope!
From: Austin, TX
Mar 11, 2009
This route has been retro-bolted and is no longer "runout."
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 8, 2010
That is most excellent in my opinion. Both time I have been up this route, I have found myself 15-20' past my last bolt (P2 or P3 I believe, my memory no longer serves) and about 10' to the left of my next bolt when I finally realized I was slowly meandering off route (the traverse was never fun).