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 ADVANCED
Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Crack 
Cedar Tree Wall 
Corner Crack 
Corner Crack Face 
Crypt Variation, The 
Crypt, The 
Dances with FIBs 
End of the Line 
Faith, Hope, and Charity 
Hidden Wall 
Indecision 
Jolly Roger 
Jungle Gym 
Jungle Gym East Face 
Mary Jane 
Rosemary's Baby 
Split Decision 
Three Kings 
W.A.R 

Jungle Gym 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,502
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Sep 15, 2002
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Mike Sohasky working the final moves on lead of "J...

Description 

An airy route with an adventurous feel, ending on a pinnacle separated from the base of Devils Doorway. The climb can be done as a single pitch, or in two to three pitches.

The main pitch: Start on the ledge left of "Cedar Tree Wall." At the southwest toe of the Tower, work up onto an apron with a big, beefy handcrack through it, below the prominent alcove.

There is an old ring piton in the wall on the right of the alcove - skip it or you'll just create rope drag. Instead, protect below the overhang (extend your sling!) and find some way to launch up onto the small ledge up and left. Some folks do the "beached whale" move, others do a layback, still others try to mantel. Burly and hard to make this look graceful.

Beyond the mantel, continue up the wandering cracks passing a bulge (and another old piton, probably also best skipped in favor of your own gear). At the top, build an anchor with hand-sized gear or thin finger-sized gear.

To get off, you may want a belay the first time you reach this point!

As a multi-pitch link-up: start down below Seventh Buttress, and do one of the routes down there as an approach. You have lots of options.


Protection 

Standard rack through 3 inches.


Location 

As a single pitch, this route is usually approached along the base of the Upper Band. Wind around past "Three Kings," under the Doorway and "Cedar Tree Wall," and along the same ledge system until you turn the corner below Jungle Gym Tower.

As a multi-pitch route, walk north along the base of the Lower Band until you reach Seventh Buttress, and climb any of the routes there as an approach.



Photos of Jungle Gym Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Sohasky starting up the first pitch of adventure climb "Jungle Gym" on toasty June day.  Major Mass, Devil's Lake.
Mike Sohasky starting up the first pitch of advent...
The apron of Jungle Gym starts between the tree and the wall and follows the crack up to another pine tree.
BETA PHOTO: The apron of Jungle Gym starts between the tree an...
Tom Anderson-Brown on the apron of Jungle Gym Tower.
Tom Anderson-Brown on the apron of Jungle Gym Towe...
Mike Sohasky leading the second pitch of adventure climb "Jungle Gym".  Major Mass, Devils's Lake.
Mike Sohasky leading the second pitch of adventure...
Jungle Gym passes to the left of the pine tree, then up the broken dihedral left of the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Jungle Gym passes to the left of the pine tree, th...
Comments on Jungle Gym Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 6, 2007

After the mantle, which can be protected by placing a piece in the crack that holds the old rusty pin, be careful of the large loose blocks above as you proceed to the top. Heading out onto the East Face route from beneath the big roof will avoid the loose stuff, but it's definitely not as satisfying as making the strenuous and exposed mantle move on the regular route. This is one of the best multi-pitch climbs at the lake.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 11, 2011

Fun link-ups with great climbing.

By Tradoholic
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

I found this climb to be overrated. We did no Rest for the Wicked for the middle pitch, it does take some micro pro for gear.

The final Jungle Gym tower can start a few different ways and has a few good moves but nothing special. I think nubes will have a tough time pulling the layback/mantle crux.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013

Such a great, airy position!