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Lost Angel
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Jungle Blues From Jupiter 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Horan, Skip Gurin, Harrison Dekker, 1981
Page Views: 792
Submitted By: Nate Harris on Sep 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Standing on a dot, Luke reaches the arete.

Description 

This route is on the far right side of Lost Angel, in the Wake Up Wall area. It starts 10 or so feet to the left of Drop Zone (the rightmost bolt line behind the large pine tree), in the large right-facing dihedral. It follows a thin crack up one overhang (approx 10a?), goes up the face for a short distance, then continues up through another overhang (10c?). Continue up the lichen-encrusted face and either go up until you can walk off to the right, or traverse right and rappel from the bolts at the top of Drop Zone.


Protection 

Standard rack. Small cams (finger size) for most of it, and a couple bigger pieces for up higher.



Photos of Jungle Blues From Jupiter Slideshow Add Photo
From these underclings you can lean left to where the crack opens up.
From these underclings you can lean left to where ...
Starting the first crux. There's virtually nothing on the left wall. Finger jam or slick layback above the gear, smear, and lean left to the arete.
Starting the first crux. There's virtually nothing...
Stepping out under the roof with good jams. Spiders From Mars is the curving corner at top right. The Caterer is the angular corner at center right.
Stepping out under the roof with good jams. Spider...
Underclinging the second roof using fair jams and decent knobs for the feet.
Underclinging the second roof using fair jams and ...
The 45 degree 10c crux roof is on the left. The aesthetic curving Spiders From Mars (11b) corner is in the center of the photo.
The 45 degree 10c crux roof is on the left. The ae...
Pulling around onto the slab. You can get a blue Camalot at the lip. The crack opens up inside, so it might walk.
Pulling around onto the slab. You can get a blue C...
Switching feet to get the left foot onto a thin edge. The finishing jug is higher on the arete above Luke's left hand.
Switching feet to get the left foot onto a thin ed...
Alex is actually climbing Spider from Mars, a 5.11b trad line just to the right of Jungle Blues from Jupiter. This is the 1st crux where Alex is about to get his right foot even with the small horizontal crack. That'll enable him to reach good holds above the bulge.
Alex is actually climbing Spider from Mars, a 5.11...
Luke really didn't want to let go of the good right hand jam for the rounded underclings.
Luke really didn't want to let go of the good righ...
Reaching for the finger lock.
Reaching for the finger lock.
Jungle Blues and Spiders from Mars climbs trad dihedrals on the right. Photo: Bob Horan.
Jungle Blues and Spiders from Mars climbs trad dih...
Comments on Jungle Blues From Jupiter Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 24, 2005

For me, the first overhang was the crux. Perhaps thinner fingers help? Or better footwork? The second overhang was quite a bit easier with good jams and feet. Rossiter's topo shows the second roof as 11a despite a 10c rating in the text.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 24, 2005

To get down: Continue to the top up an easy crack or possibly go up a ways and then right to anchors for the two sport climbs to the right. Or do what we did: Place some gear a short ways above the roof, downclimb and clip the anchor bolts just above the roof on the left (The Host 11c/d) and lower, being careful of the rope over the lip. The second cleans the trad anchor, steps down to the bolts and lowers or raps off.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 10, 2007

Rolofson's new guide rates the first crux as 11a which makes me feel a lot better. The finger jam is slick, feet are small, and the cam protecting the crux is in a glassy parallel crack, which adds some doubt.

Rolofson calls the second crux 10d, but it feels more like 10a/b to me, although it's intimidating.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 10, 2007

You can bypass the first crux by doing a "step" to end up above The Vaino Step. A few feet up the starting corner you can stem out left to a knob. Maneuver your right foot up until you can reach out left to a jug/horn. Swing left onto the slab and clip a bolt or two. This variation is about 5.9 if you're tall enough to reach the horn.