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Plumb Line Crag
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June Bride 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Sep 14, 2008

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Description 

A distinctive, smaller-than-tips splitter down low, that turns into a fingers flare up high. Left-leaning for a ways, but goes right again at the top through slightly better (but not much) jams to a notch and the topout. Step across a wide crack and head up a brief grainy slab to a good horizontal crack, and belay. Walk right about 50 feet to the top of the chimney the route starts in and downclimb (5.2ish) back to the belay. Alternately, bring 2 or 3 #4 Big Bros and belay from the wide crack behind the topout.

This route does not lend itself well to toproping (the upper flared crack leans quite a ways away from the lay of the rope, leading to big pendulums and a forced sequence to deal with the pull of the rope), but can be toproped from the same horizontal crack. Pack a few hand/fist sized pieces and some nuts (I used a BD #3, #3.5, and a #8 stopper), as well as very long slings, if you elect to toprope.


Location 

About 150 yards right of Plumb Line, look for a series of dihedrals. This is the middle one, with a distinctive splitter crack running up an ever-so-slightly slabby wall. The dihedral itself is home to a flaring chimney that provides easy access to the top. The route starts from a chockstone wedged in the base of the crack.


Protection 

Small nuts (especially stoppers 2-4), as well as cams to 1.5"



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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 14, 2008

I did not redpoint the route, or even complete it on lead. However, I toproped it with an eye for leading. It's small nuts down low, and small cams up high. Lots of yellow Alien-sized placements. It can feel a little spicy right off the deck, since the crux is right off the deck, and it's a lot more face climbing than crack climbing until you hit the flare, about a third of the way up. Pictures are forthcoming, Jason.