Junction rock is the lower formation looming above I 70 just West of the Empire turn-off. As a South facing crag it gets very good sun most of the day and is well enough protected that it misses much of the prevailing winds. This is not a great crag, but it does host a very steep crack and face system that could turn out to be very difficult. The main feature overhangs 35 degrees continuously for 80 feet. The rock is dirty to start and does need a lot of cleaning - typical of this sector of semi-high altitude granite - but once cleaned up the rock is very solid. Overall this crag may yield half a dozen routes of decent quality, and if it gets done, the crack and face would probably be three star quality. Presently (1/21/03) two lines have been done and these take two of the best features on the crag. On the right is a layback flake/roof/slab line at mid 11 or so, and on the left is a sweet (two star) blunt arete that climbs on terrible feet with a series of relentless crimps that produce a reasonably difficult line that has cleaned up well. Junction Rock is not a major destination, but once the main lines have been completed it will be worth a stop - particularly if you happened to be stalled out on I 70 traffic.
From I 70, take the exit for Empire/Winter Park. At the fork just off the highway, take the lane returning to I 70 West. Park on the right between signs or at a large pull out on the left at the Easter Seal Camp sign. The crag is obvious, on the right, and is best approached via the old miner's road.
Browse More Classics in Junction Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Junction Rock:
Arete Rules 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Russian Dolls 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Featured Route For Junction Rock
Russian Dolls 5.11 CO : Empire : Junction Rock
Good varied climbing on solid stone, The Russian Dolls mixes in several nice features that finish on the slab above. It is named for the two gals at the gas station in Empire that could make buying a coke a sexy treat....[more] Browse More Classics in CO