Jumping Someone Else's Train
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Colin Lantz, 1992 |
Page Views: | 2,896 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 30, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Begin this steep power route by jumping off the polished launch pad about 5 feet up the slab. You will experience the mental crux of the route before your feet have even left the ground! Grab onto a sharp left hand jug and a smaller but still good right hand. From here, follow a number of strenuous gaston and cross-through moves to an okay rest and your 4th clip. The route now eases off on angle but continues in difficulty. Punch it to a sloper and delicately move around the corner on poor feet to sloper jugs and the chains.
Originally called 'Jumping Someone Else's Train', two options are available for the vertically challenged: Stick clip and pull up to the start holds ('Chump') and a boulder start through the smoke scaring in the back of the cave which ups the grade to 13c ('Judontwanttogothere' FA: Andy Raether, '07).
Hard to find sequences and power endurance movement characterize this fun climb. Climbs much better than it looks.
Originally called 'Jumping Someone Else's Train', two options are available for the vertically challenged: Stick clip and pull up to the start holds ('Chump') and a boulder start through the smoke scaring in the back of the cave which ups the grade to 13c ('Judontwanttogothere' FA: Andy Raether, '07).
Hard to find sequences and power endurance movement characterize this fun climb. Climbs much better than it looks.
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