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Junkyard Wall
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Jumping Jack Flash 
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Jumping Jack Flash 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T.A. Horton and Hobart Parks
Page Views: 1,184
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007
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Jumping Jack Flash

Description 

Akward!!!

Start in the chimney, squeeze your way out of it using body tension, very hard for 5.7. Continue up easy hand crack and dirty face holds to the new anchors.


Location 

Corner between New Yosemite
and Junk Yard Dog.


Protection 

Good gear but you might have to shove it back in there kinda far in the initial chimney so it is out fo your way.



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By DaveB
Apr 14, 2008

I kind of like this route. The awkward start stymies many, and it's fun to watch the grunting and shoulder-crushing until the crux is figured out. Also, with the crux down low, it's good for new(er) trad leaders.

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

This is VERY slippery! My partner was complaining all day about how each route we got on was polished, but this was easily the worst. The bottom is super awkward and unstable. I understood the crux move as soon as I got to it, but I felt like I'd slip off at any second. Committing to it is more of a crux than actually doing the move. Once you get up 20 feet or so, it's a cakewalk.

By Jake Jones
From: The Eastern Flatlands
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Super secure jams for both hands and feet if you can't stem out to the right or layback. It is slippery, but if you just jam the beginning section it's a non issue, and there's good pro all the way pretty much anywhere you want it.

By K Baumgartner
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Slippery chimney for sure.