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This is the slightly J-shaped crack with a flake near the bottom to the left of "Vanishing Point." Use the flake to hand jam/undercling/layback then get into the crack proper with more good hand jamming. Near the top the crack becomes an offwidth that protects with a #5 Camalot you can push up or similar wide pro. Use the bolt and chain anchor for VP to rap.
Various cams up to #5 Camalot.
Tim emerging from the chimney.
Julie using the face holds outside the chimney.
Eric Jammin' away below the chimney.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Sep 30, 2009
I did this climb a while ago when I thought I was climbing gobblers grunt. It was hard to find the twin finger cracks above.... anyways, true to beta for gobblers grunt I traversed into the crack to the left right below the wide part. Interesting variation, I'm not sure if it avoids the hard part or not.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 8, 2009
The offwidth part is only hard if you stay deep in the crack. There are face features on the right side of the wide with ample flakes and foot ledges to get up without resorting to chicken wings and foot stacks.
Apr 25, 2011
Climbed this mistakenly thinking it was the .7 that is one climb to the left. Felt significantly harder than p1 of Sayter's Asshole, which our book said goes at .9 if you traverse left.
|By Andrew S.|
Mar 11, 2012
As a new trad leader, this one was really rough. I started out in the wide crack to left put in a piece or two and transitioned over into the j. Nice jams to a take for quite a few minutes, continue up into the OW, #5 is nice to have about halfway through the thing. Agreed with Stitch, don't get to far in unless you're whining and need to rest like me. There are little knobs and good little flakes to work up this thing. Stop bitchin' and moanin', OH MY GOD!
|By Dave Carey|
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 22, 2012
What is the crack just left of Jump Start? I climbed the left crack today thinking it is Night Time Madness, but I am second guessing that now.
|By Sagar Gondalia|
Jun 3, 2013
My understanding is that it's a 5.7. Although there aren't any moves harder than 5.7 on the climb, it's definitely a continuous workout.