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Resting at the "huge jug" just before entering the...
This excellent line is likely the best 12a on the Sunny Side, climbing aesthetic, high quality orange limestone.
The route begins with a difficult, thin crimping boulder problem to reach obvious jugs 8 feet up. Alternatively, if you're tall (or have mad-hops), you can always go for the 'jump start'. A few moderate moves lead to more thin crimps, then a powerful, long reach from an undercling to jugs below the 3rd bolt. From here wander left to a huge jug at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Deceptively strenuous moves lead into the dihedral, where more jugs bring you to the 5th bolt. A fun slab on great rock heads past 3 more bolts to the anchor.
Seventh route from the right, or 3rd route right of Heat Stroke.
BETA PHOTO: Photo taken during the Thanksgiving2008 weather th...
Michael Baker, cleaning up gear at the end of the ...
John climbing jump start sorry for the quality.......
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 16, 2008
It's possible to get a sit down no hands rest between the third and fourth bolt. I missed it and had to make due with the jug rest, but my partner was able to get it.