Easy climbing up the right facing flake on the right side of the ark, leads to a traverse on rusted iron color pockets up to a cool undercling. Blast up and over the roof here, making a hard move before the next bolt. Save some juice for 3 more bolts to the chains on thin pockets and crimps.
Shares the start and the first 4 bolts as the Last Starfighter and Unsubstantiated Propaganda
13 Bolts to chains. Although the moves were easy 10-, it was comforting to have a longer runner to clip an extra bolt to protect the traverse.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Aug 12, 2011
I thought the crux clip was... the crux! I think taller people should have an easier time of it.
|By Toby Butterfield|
From: Portland, OR
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I definitely felt like the crux was a move from a tiny crimp up to a pinch right after you come out around the roof. Lovely climb, though, and unlike many others actually has a clipping stance for the anchors up in the churt.
|By Pat Mac|
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I didn't feel like this route was any harder than the rest. And for sure not a cool or as clean of a line as LSF. But still worth doing if you climb the grade.