|Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
This absolutely fabulous route will make you stand up and salute Spearfish Canyon. Starts on "Oh beautiful for spacious pockets" and works its way to "Amber waves of a roof" that might give the intermediate climber a WTF moment. But don't worry, just think about how to attack the problem, and go for it, the moves are all there and the protection is exactly where you want it. Then keep jug hauling up this "purple mountain majesty", and you will end up far "above the fruited plains". Has anyone ever sung the ENTIRE America The Beautiful song? It's freaking long! Just like this exceptional route.
July 4th is listed as route #2 on the EBM Wall in the Spearfish Canyon Limestone guidebook, putting it about 20 or 30 feet to the right of The Corn Route. Belay from the trail. The climber will have to navigate a steep, dirty slope (often through poison ivy) to get to the climb itself. It is recommended that you use a big rope bag or a tarp to protect yourself and keep your shoes clean as you navigate your way there.
Take at least a dozen quickdraws. There are 10 bolts and closed shut anchors you need to clip while moving up this beast.
|By Joe M|
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 5, 2010
This is definitely a must do route!!! There are now 11 bolts plus the anchors.