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Julie 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
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Submitted By: claude. on Apr 25, 2010
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For the short this is a feet-cutting dyno.

Description 

Starting on the left side of the large feature just left of Scott, make the big moves up the steep face on increasingly worse holds until just below the lip, where you'll be faced with the last move of the crux: an explosive throw to a rounded jug. This is the hardest single move on the route and for some it will be low percentage and definitely harder if you're short. From here, manage the pump factor before completing several long reaches on rounded edges. Don't fall doing the last big move before clipping the chains as there is quite some distance to the last clipped draw.

This route seems likely on the harder side of 12c when compared to others of a similar grade at the Tunnel


Location 

Left of Scott


Protection 

bolts



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Unfortunately this route is a bit of a 1 move wonder (especially for climbers who can't keep their feet on the good holds or stem wide to the large feature). While the moves off the pyramid are challenging the crux for me was a right handed deadpoint off a fairly good hold to a large rail that only has a few good spots on it. This throw felt really low percentage to me as it is to a blind hold.

Definitly felt like it's on the harder side of 12c. To me it felt almost or as hard as Gluttony.