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Routes in Ap. New Diversions
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Burst of Brilliance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chicken Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cock Tart S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Falcon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Highlander S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jugs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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New Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Diversions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rocket Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Strangers In the Night T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tail End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m) |
| FA: | Henry Barber (1974) |
| Page Views: | 993 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route takes a path of least resistance up the knobby face to the right of Chicken Pie. It is best done in one very long pitch. An 80m rope might make it to the top of the cliff. I think with a 70m you will have to simulclimb 20ft or stop and belay at a hand crack just shy of the top.
Start a ways to the right off a boulder that touches the base of the wall. Climb up to a high first bolt, and then continue upwards to a second bolt. The bolts were recently replaced and are bomber. From the second bolt downclimb a short ways and traverse perhaps 15 feet to the left. From here continue up on smaller knobs to reach a small footledge below a water-streak. Down at the bottom of the footledge is a knob that you can tie off which protects the next crux. (Its also possible to escape here by traversing further left on big knobs to a bolted rap anchor) Make one sort of thin move above the ledge to gain a good rail and bigger knobs in the water-streak. There is another ok knob that can be tied off here, before you must mantel onto a hummock which is growing out of the bottom of a flake. This leads to directly below the roof where there is good gear (1-1.5 cams). Getting over the roof is easy thanks to big knobs and then its a cruise to the top of the cliff.
Start a ways to the right off a boulder that touches the base of the wall. Climb up to a high first bolt, and then continue upwards to a second bolt. The bolts were recently replaced and are bomber. From the second bolt downclimb a short ways and traverse perhaps 15 feet to the left. From here continue up on smaller knobs to reach a small footledge below a water-streak. Down at the bottom of the footledge is a knob that you can tie off which protects the next crux. (Its also possible to escape here by traversing further left on big knobs to a bolted rap anchor) Make one sort of thin move above the ledge to gain a good rail and bigger knobs in the water-streak. There is another ok knob that can be tied off here, before you must mantel onto a hummock which is growing out of the bottom of a flake. This leads to directly below the roof where there is good gear (1-1.5 cams). Getting over the roof is easy thanks to big knobs and then its a cruise to the top of the cliff.
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