Located to the right of War and Peace (5.9+) this is (as the name points out) a juggy route that is fun but doesn't quite live up to the 4 star 5.10s farther left. No reason to avoid it however as it will give you that good old Bonsai feeling of climbing steep rock on good holds and we all know that classic is just slang for over crowded so as you wait for masterpiece to open up take a run up Jugline.
Climb the line of bolts just right of War and Piece. Climb up the steep wall starting on super jugs then a somewhat tricky section either use worse holds directly or better ones slighty right. The climbing eases up and you will be useing your mind more than your muscles to the quick clips. There are a couple ways to gain the quick clips i found staying right to be the line of least resistance.
Just right of War and Piece...
8 bolts to anchors
BETA PHOTO: Jugline on Bonsai Wall
The beginning of jugline 5.10b
The surprisingly tricky top
Both my climbing partn...
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It may also be worth noting that the final few moves to the chains may challenge those with a phobia of crack climbing.
|By J Meagher|
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super cool overhanging moves and fun vertical climbing at the top. Even though the guidebook says to stay to the right, move further right than you think you should, because your first reaction (even if you've been told to go right) is to climb straight up. Surprisingly pumpy moves for such a short overhanging section.