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 ADVANCED
Five Open Books
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Caverns, The T 
Commitment T 
Fire Fly S 
Hanging Teeth T 
Jughead T 
Munginella T 
Selaginella T 
Surprise, The T 
Try Again Ledge T 
Werner's Ant Trees T 
Work Around the Skirt S 

Jughead 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tucker Tech - Late 1980's
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Osprey on Apr 28, 2011

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Description 

This is a good line with some high quality sections and also some crumbly sections. The climb begins up a great looking face with beautifully colored, high quality knobs for approx. 20ft. As the knobs end, the quality of the rock deteriorates and unprotected slab climbing begins. About 40 ft. above the ground, a shallow crux water groove with crusty friction must be mantled (.8) over ground fall potential. This section of the climb is short and continued unprotected slab climbing continues until the top third of the climb is reached. Follow a solid crack up and left with good pro over easy to moderately easy fifth class rock. When the crack ends, make a fun move up and to the right (.6) to gain the low angle slab and grassy terraces to the top of the pitch. Cross the trail that serves as the walk off for the Five Open Books and belay from a small tree.

There is a large range of risk involved in the R rated climbs in Yosemite. Some are soft R's (low risk) and some are hard R's (high risk). This climb is a hard R. It is just a tad shy of being X rated.


Location 

This route is located on the far left side of the Five Open Books, on a huge grassy ledge up and to the left of Munginella. It is the only climb off of the ledge that starts with knobs.


Protection 

A sling or two for the knobs at the bottom, and a couple of finger to hand sized pieces for the top.



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By Osprey
From: ...
Apr 28, 2011

After sampling many of Tucker's routes, I was surprised he did not place a bolt at the crux on this one. This is a serious move that must have puckered even him to make. It sure is an excitingly scary moment that, in hindsight, will bring smiles to the faces of those who have passed through the terror of it.

He must not have had a bolt to spare. Must have been one of those, "Ahh F-it!" days. Although, wasn't every day like that for Tucker?