BETA PHOTO: boulder up the juggy start and go toward the left ...
Look for a short, steep, hand crack a few hundred feet before VD, uphill in a large recessed area. The actual 'hand crack' is about 20 feet off the deck. The whole route is steep and juggy, and would be excellent if the rock did not deteriorate in a big way as you get closer to the top of the cliff.
Easiest descent traverses up and right to a fixed lowering station (slings and biners around a tree). This brings you down directly over an excellent 5.8 warm up.
Light rack to #3 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: from the pod crack follow up to the v crack in the...
|By Matt Westlake|
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Can you provide some more specifics about the 5.8 warm up you mentioned? Is it a named route listed here or in one of the area guides? The Nevermore chimney?
Follow-up: Seems the 5.8 "Juggerhead" that Eddie posted is the route in question. Will check it out soon!
From: Flat Place, NC
Jan 7, 2011
The warm up I mentioned isn't listed in any guide I have seen. It is directly to the right of Juggernaut-maybe 15 feet or so. Juggernaut is directly up a steep hill between the two main North End cliffs and has a part to miss vertical crack in the middle.