Juggerhead  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Edward Medina on May 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

I've asked many of the long-time local climbers about a history for this climb without much luck. If it was named by the first ascencionist noone I talked to seems to know what it is. Since it is between Juggernaut and Indian Head I thought Juggerhead would be appropriate.
Start in a fist crack with the hardest moves right off the ground. Where the crack peters out trend right towards the arete where the rock is most featured. Gear placements in the horizontals are right where you want them, don't pass any up. Rappell from slings at a tree.
Please pass along any FA info if you have it.

Location 

Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 15' right of the start of Juggernaut.

Protection 

#4 Camalot can be placed with a Piedmont stick clip (your 6' climbing partner) to protect the opening moves.From there it is mostly small to midsized cams. Tricams are useful.