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Juggerhead 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Edward Medina on May 27, 2012
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Beating the rain on Juggerhead, 11-2-13
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I've asked many of the long-time local climbers about a history for this climb without much luck. If it was named by the first ascencionist noone I talked to seems to know what it is. Since it is between Juggernaut and Indian Head I thought Juggerhead would be appropriate.
Start in a fist crack with the hardest moves right off the ground. Where the crack peters out trend right towards the arete where the rock is most featured. Gear placements in the horizontals are right where you want them, don't pass any up. Rappell from slings at a tree.
Please pass along any FA info if you have it.


Location 

Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 15' right of the start of Juggernaut.


Protection 

#4 Camalot can be placed with a Piedmont stick clip (your 6' climbing partner) to protect the opening moves.From there it is mostly small to midsized cams. Tricams are useful.



Photos of Juggerhead Slideshow Add Photo
A bit more runout and dirty than expected higher up, fun climbing nonetheless
BETA PHOTO: A bit more runout and dirty than expected higher u...
Juggerhead route overview, anchor (multiple fixed slings/webbing and 3 solid locking biners as of 11-2-13) at the tree straight above route, center...please remember to check for wear & backup if necessary
BETA PHOTO: Juggerhead route overview, anchor (multiple fixed ...
Comments on Juggerhead Add Comment
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By gneiss pirate
Jun 4, 2012

Piedmont stick clip?.....Your words of wit crack me up Eddie.

Thanks for showing me and Eddy this route Mr Barb. Makes a great warmup for Nutsweat.

By Phil York
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Sep 21, 2012

Fun route! I did this little gem for the first time today. There is a lot more climbing on this than it looks from the ground. Great moves up top, solid gear right where you need it.

By Matt Westlake
Nov 12, 2012

Added some red and black cord + locking biner to the rap station crispy tat on 11/12/12.

+1 on fun route. Sorta made me think of a harder version of "my wife's pajamas" route. Plus there is a fun and HARD (for 2-3 moves) direct variation up the rap line which makes for a good TR, or maybe a scary lead.