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The Balcony
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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rich Strang
Page Views: 2,497
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006
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Brian, crushing the starting moves on


Follow the steep jugs up steep overhanging rock. A really nice route, crux is the first half of the route, after that, the grade mellows. Fun movement.


Not in the main area of The Balcony, but go right (south) past the lower angle climbs, to the rightmost block. You cant miss the large overhanging cobblestone with chalked jugs and bolts.


5 bolts to anchors.

Photos of Jug-or-Naut Slideshow Add Photo
Brie-Anne on Jug-or-Naught.
Brie-Anne on Jug-or-Naught.
Jen Hoffman working between the third and fourth bolts on Jug-or-Naut.
Jen Hoffman working between the third and fourth b...
Just past fourth bolt (crux) of Jug-or-Naut.
Just past fourth bolt (crux) of Jug-or-Naut.
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By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Stickclipping the first bolt may be a good idea for leaders at their limit. Otherwise climb above the bolt to the huge jug and clip from there, where it's also possible to clip the second as well.

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 13, 2010

The twin 11s of Jug-or-naut and Rodent Outhouse are pretty similar. If you do one, you might as well do the other. Jug-or-naut is at least a letter grade harder... fewer big jugs to shake out on.