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 ADVANCED
The Western Wing & Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
357 aka Angel (free version) T 
Alien Encounters T 
Endurance, The T 
French Free T 
Green Eggs and Cams T 
Jug Monkey T 
On Green Dolphin Street T 
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 

Jug Monkey 

A1-2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus: A1-2 [details]
FA: Steve Dupuis Steve Golden 2000ish
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: Aaron R on May 10, 2010

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Description 

Nail a vertical to overhanging knifeblade crack.

The second was learning how to jumar.


Location 

Middle section of the alcove, just right of Endurance. Approach from the right, following an easy ramp out to the climb proper.


Protection 

Blades, one bolt. There is a bolted anchor at the top.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 7, 2012

I still can't identify this line on the cliff. Do you remember if it is to the right or left of The Endurance, Aaron?

There is a steep 50 deg. thin crack just around to the right of the endurance with 2 widely spaced anchor bolts at the top, that looks like it might start the same as the Endurance and then branch off, that I assume somebody aided. I rapped over that line a while ago and the top looks like it will go free, but I need a closer look at the start of the steepness. Any info on that line?

By Aaron R
Sep 8, 2012

I want to say "Jug Monkey" is to the right of Endurance left of "Alien". I think I remember Steve D. saying the crack size was blades to LAs. I just talk to a friend who did the Aliens FA and he remembered the 2nd pitch as a little funky off the belay to then a nice quality hand crack to the trees. He was pulling logs/branches out on the FA. With your description I think you have identified "Jug Monkey."

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 9, 2012

Thanks. Your description of Alien is about what I remember from when I checked it out. The rock was crumblier than most of the other lines, but the hand crack was nice. I threw some big loose chunks down when I rapped it.

Things were wet this morning, so I decided to try the way in via going to MeadowBrook slabs and then shwacking up to the Alcove. That was pretty steep and nasty. It's too bad because the ride in is really quick and easy (30 min). Coming back I hiked down my normal way to where I usually get water, but then shwacked directly over to the big clearing below the slabs since I had to get my bike. That was better, but still slower than the "long" way. My friend Todd beat me by 25 minutes going the normal way with a big pack. I did find a huge 40ft tall boulder though.