|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
Jug Haul could turn into quite a nice route, but as it stands, it needs further work. The route needs a lot of cleaning and for several reasons, not the least of which is safety. The final moves are protected by mid to large size cams placed under a stack of loose blocks. Until this area has been cleaned of all the loose material, it is unlikely that the cams would hold a fall. The final headwall is very dirty, as are the horrizontal flake/seams leading up to it, so it is not even clear where the route is intended to go, let alone hold pro very well. Harald mentions abundant gear after the opening bolt, but I found very little that was trustworthy for quite a long way, long enough that you climb well into the groundfall zone. A bolt above the opening crack, which does take good gear, would solve most of the concern. The route is so dirty above the ledge that it is distasteful, and, again, it is not clear where the route is intended to go. Straight up, out left, out right each provides a climbable option, but these range from easy to hard with no clear idea of what was intended. For anyone else intending to climb Jug Haul, I would recommend a TR run if only to suss out the gear from above the opening crack to the headwall above the ledge.
N.B.: as of 7/18/2013 the nut on the opening bolt has been tightened only by hand! I found the hanger spinning when I started up and did not have a wrench with me.