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Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

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Adam's Rib S 
Backpaddle S 
Black Tube, The S 
Brown Hangers S 
Crystal Jug S 
Dick Van Dike S 
Law School S 
Love Canal S 
Rasp, The S 
Shag S 
Unknown S 
Unsorted Routes:

Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock 


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Location: 40.41158, -105.38089 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 20, 2002
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The original summit register of "Anne's Rock", the...

Description 

This is a great out-of-the-way area on the way to Estes Park with a choice of long (12-16) clip sport face routes, as well as a few shorter, sport routes on varied granite with a choice of long, slabby crystal pinching routes to short, bulging, gym style climbing. This area has seen very little climbing since it was bolted by Snively, Hill, and Gillett in '98, so there are few friable flakes here and there. Do expect a lot of solitude and some great scenery to make up for the approach that is a LOT longer than the ten minutes claimed by Gillett.

L->R:

A. Unknown.
B. Brown Hangers, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Shag, 7, 1p, 140', bolts.
D. Backpaddle, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
E. Black Tube, 10, 1p, 180', bolts.
F. Adam's Rib, 10, 1p, 140', bolts.
G. Law School, 8, 1-2p, 150', bolts.
H. Dick Van Dike, 9-, 1p, 150', bolts.
I. Love Canal, 7, 2p, 150', bolts.
J. Crystal Jug, 7, 2p, 170', bolts.

Above:

K. The Rasp, 8, 1p, 65', bolts.

Far right:

L. Unknown, 8, 1p, bolts.

Unknown locations:

Direct Route, South Face, 8, FA Layton Kor & Rob Wheeler, 1970.
Southeast Face, FA Walter Warner, Ed McTaggart, Dalton Garlitz, Denny McMillin, Blaine Goil, Kevin Sohnulle, 1959.


Getting There 

This is a hard to find area, but it is worth the time to figure out. The easiest way to locate it is to drive up (W) the Big Thompson Canyon to the handicapped fishing pullout past Drake. Turn around and drive back down looking for a one car pull-out on the left (N) using Gillett's topo of the area on the tiny upper right hand corner of page 191 of his guide to find the spot about 0.4 mi. below the handicapped turnout and JUST!! past a blasted rock-roadcut area. Park and follow an initially steep but gradually easier, somewhat cairned trail, first to the west then to the east, to find the base of the rock. This is about the same length as the approach to Animal World or Upper Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock:
Love Canal   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   
Dick Van Dike   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Black Tube   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Adam's Rib   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Backpaddle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Featured Route For Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
Crystal Jug (5.7). Bolts/belays are approximate.

Crystal Jug 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
Pitch 1 (5.7, 90 feet)Start 15' east of Love Canal on a steep fin to reach a bolt 20' off the ground (or you can get to this bolt by walking up the fin on the left side). Continue past the first bolt clipping three/four more bolts to the anchor. The crux of the climb is between bolt two and bolt three.Pitch 2 (5.6, 80 feet)From the anchor, look up and to the left to see the first bolt of pitch two. From there follow the line of bolts (6 bolts) along easy and well protected rock. NOT...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Photos of Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Norman Kirk touches history. Anne's Rock, aka Jug Dome, Big Thompson Canyon.
Norman Kirk touches history. Anne's Rock, aka Jug ...
The backside of the original summit register page for Anne's Rock (aka Jug Dome) which includes an entry by Layton Kor and Rob Wheeler documenting their "Direct South Face" route climbed on June 19, 1970.
The backside of the original summit register page ...
A close up look at Layton Kor's summit register entry for Anne's Rock (aka Jug Dome). His route, the "Direct South Face" (5.8), done with Rob Wheeler in 1970, remains enigmatic today. Currently a relatively new sport climbing area, the rock boasts few protectable features other than a couple of grooves and a discontinuous flared chimney/dihedral or two.
A close up look at Layton Kor's summit register en...
Comments on Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2014
By Mark Morehouse
Jan 24, 2003

There is a very obvious cairn marking the start of the trail and the parking spot. I found the approach to be fairly short and easy.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2003

It is not that hard to find if you go east from the handicapped fishing area. The trail must be seeing more use, because I found it well marked (cairned) all the way up. A fairly steep approach but not unreasonable for the solitude you gain by it. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach, and you will definitely be warmed up!

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 20, 2006

We hit Jug Dome and Mary's Bust on 16 July, 2006 when it was very hot nearly everywhere (103 in Denver). I thought that the climbing on both crags was fairly similar, but MB was significantly cooler (mid 80s) with most of the South face in the shade and in close proximity to the river. This made for basically comfortable climbing on an otherwise very hot day. As the route development grows on MB, the crag could be a nice choice on those blistering hot days. As a side note on BTC climbing in general, I find myself growing used to the different texture and cryptic footwork needed in the BTC. Personally, I don't think BTC will ever quite rival Boulder Canyon or Dream Canyon granite, but for the general value of climbing on a different medium, hitting BTC now and again may have some merit. Many of these crags can be developed in such a way as to avoid the bad rock, and when this can be accomplished it is possible to craft some really nice climbing (strictly IMPO). For example, we started a new three or four pitch line on MB that started on typical BTC granite, but switched to a very fine grained, solid, and almost chocolate colored stone in the second pitch. Real nice to the touch. It may be that a lot of these larger rocks are composed of several layers of very different stone with the softer (and chossier) rock comprising a specific depositional plane, and this might be good news.

By Carl
Jul 20, 2006

Hi,

I tried to go the Jug Dome a couple of weeks ago and spent 4 hours trying to find the bolts. I am pretty confident that I had the right pullout, and I found an obvious trail up the mountain for a ways, but could never find the actual routes. Does anyone have any more detailed descriptions of the final approach and/or some GPS coordinates. Are the bolts still there?

Thanks,

Carl

By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 29, 2007

I first climbed here in 2000 and on top was surprised to find an old metal tennis ball can with a cracked plastic lid containing the summit register first signed by a large party in 1959. The name they gave it was Anne's Rock, and they didn't specify which route they followed, other than calling it the "Southeast Face". The second party signed it less than three months later, and it wasn't signed again until Layton Kor and Rob Wheeler's 1970 ascent. It's curious that such an obscure rock that can't even be seen from the road, up a steep slope in an area not known for climbing, would not only have been climbed as early as 1959 (twice), but also have drawn the likes of Layton Kor. And not only that, but before being recently bolted, it's sparse features barely offered any options for protection. To climb it on gear would mean runouts with ground fall potential, and it hardly seems a rock worth risking one's life for. It's interesting, then, that such an unassuming little crag would have such history, and that the first ascentionists would be excited enough about their climb to leave a record of their ascent. Sometime over the last 7 years, the tennis ball can was replaced by a glass jar.

By Bernard Gillett
Jul 29, 2007

Wow! Fascinating. Good find, Kurt. I don't know how the rest of the world feels about poaching summit registers, but I wonder whether something like that would be better off in a museum (rather than in someone's private collection, or rather than having the glass break -- in a storm, by an animal -- and the history lost). Perhaps the American Alpine Club library in Golden, or Neptune's, etc. would be a good place to which it could be bequeathed.

I am confused by the date of Kor's ascent: 1970. Didn't he turn away from climbing in 1967?
As for the route: I'd bet the chimney of Law School.

Re this: "...and it hardly seems a rock worth risking one's life for." I'm thinking the level of risk on this rock wasn't much different than a lot of the climbs completed at that time.

By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 29, 2007

Bernard,

When I first saw the register 7 years ago, I thought about taking pictures of it and finding a better container to put it in, one that didn't leak, but then I moved away for a while and didn't get around to going back up there until today. I didn't even know if it would still be there, but to my surprise it was (although the paper's a bit more rust-stained from the old tennis ball can, I presume), along with a new jar and a note asking people to leave it for others to enjoy as it has historical significance. It is protected from the elements by a pile of rocks, but not from being accidently dropped or purposely stolen. About taking it to Neptune's or the AAC library, I wouldn't want to be the one to make the call, but I can see how that might be a good thing. I guess I figured since it's been there that long, it'll continue to be, since most people who climb there don't even know who Layton Kor is, much less actually top out. Plus, more than a few climbers have signed it during the past several years and it's still there. But now that I've put it on the web, of course, it'll become more known. When I posted it, I wanted to share the history of the rock...but perhaps if there are climbers out there willing to horde that history for themselves I should either remove this posting and the photos from this site or the register itself should be removed and placed in one of the aforementioned locations where it can be both preserved and enjoyed by the public. Many years ago I lived in Sedona, Arizona, and I talked to someone who had recently found some large intact Sinagua pots on his land. He notified Forest Service archaeologists about them, and they were removed and put in a museum for safe keeping. I remember thinking that if they were on my land, I'd leave them where I found them because the land without them would have lost some of its "soul" and vice versa. But I also felt torn, because if someone with less good intentions ever found them and walked off with them, a lot more would've been lost. I feel the same way about this - although someone's a lot less likely to take them home than Anasazi artifacts. Anyway, let me know what you think. About the date, 1970, I don't know when he quit climbing for a while, but I'm pretty sure it says 6/19/70 on the register.

By Mike Dallin
Jul 30, 2007

I'm the culprit who replaced the old tennis can with the jar, I would guess in 2001 or possibly 2002 (like Kurt, I first saw it around 2000). I lined the jar with paper to keep the sun from fading the register. In retrospect I should have used some sort of PVC or opaque nalgene bottle for the register, or maybe an ammo box (the tennis can was leaking and I wanted to work quick though). I also stuck the 'historical' note in. I'm surprised but happy it is still there. I would not be against having someone like the AAC take care of it (at the time I was last there I knew the CMC collected registers but didn't know if they would care about an anonymous rock in the big T). I looked at what I thought is Kor's route and all I could guess is that he climbed a shallow chimney below the summit with no pro.

There are other interesting things in the area. To the northeast a bit is a gully, down it is a fin of rock with an arch. We called it Continental Arch because from the north it looks (with a lot of imagination) like the US map. I couldn't give directions to it but I could easily find it if I went back to the area. The drainage (usually dry) just north of Mary's Bust has been a "canyoneering" route for a few years now. It is really boring except in April or so when the spring-fed stream runs. At that point it creates a number of waterfalls and is really pretty. It creates some ice in the winter but I don't think it ever gets thick enough to be climbable (caveat: I'm not an ice climber so I assume a lot).

tinyurl.com/2llm8s
estes.on-line.com/rmnp/pics/2002/04272002_7_tn.jpg
estes.on-line.com/rmnp/pics/2001/05132001.html

By Bernard Gillett
Jul 30, 2007

The possible ice that Mike mentions in his canyoneering route sounds like something Douglas Snively and Jerry Hill climbed one winter. I know they did a mixed route in some gully right of Mary's Bust a number of years ago (and I don't think they came away from the experience feeling like it was a good climb -- just a diversion on a cold day).

By allen simons
Aug 3, 2007

Kurt, the photos of the register are way cool. I have been up there many times and frankly, never look for such things. Seems climbers these days don't do that sort of thing. It doesn't surprise me that Layton Kor climbed there although the date is a little befuddling. But then again this is an example of the many things we don't know about many climbers. I do know from talking with Jim Disney that he used to climb with Kor and did put up routes in the canyon. I know of one farther east in the narrows. The canyon is full of a lost history of ascents and first ascensionists. Pitons, slings and old quarter inch bolts are occasionally found. Another cool canyon dilemma is at roadside along highway 34 about a mile west of Drake. A slab of greenish granite/gneiss with an overhang 20 feet up sports two sets of initials carved into the base of two climbs. "TH" and "GD" if memory serves me right although those may be incorrect. Who are they, when did they climb?? It would be great to know these histories but we may never know. But, it makes your find exciting. If I had a vote I would say keep the register there for others to see. But I know in my heart it will disappear eventually. Bernard's idea of a museum or Neptune's Is probably the best way to preserve it. Thanks for the pictures of it though. Way Cool. FA 1959---amazing!

By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 8, 2007

After 20 years living in Estes Park, and 9 years after my friends put up these sport routes, I finally wandered to this crag last week after work. I had a wonderful evening on Law School and the Black Tube. I wish I had known about the register just to gaze upon the script of the Budda himself (Kor).
The American Alpine Club is currently mid-construction of the AAC Bradford Washburn Museum. Gary Neptune will be providing much of his extensive collection I understand.
I would be happy to ask if there is a method, means or destination for the AAC to save & protect this register. I would also encourage your comments, before I touch it.
I topped out on The Priest (near Moab) about 12 years ago, and was astonished to find the original summit register in an ammo box. The list of names on that register read like the who's - who of American climbing. I hope its either still there or makes it into the museum too.

By Tina C.
Sep 16, 2007

I was just wondering if someone could help me out in locating the trail head. I went climbing with the intention of doing this area but ended up on Stone Point instead... Is Annie's Rock a little further east on Hwy 34 or is it a little further west? Are there some better visual cues that I should be looking for? Is it a dirt pull off or cement? Thanks

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 18, 2007

Tina, about 100 yards East of the Stone Point pullout is a smaller pullout on the right as you drive toward Estes Park. This little spot is the closest parking for Jug Dome, although the other pullouts are all very close. The spot is marked by several large boulders. The trail is best located on the right of the pullout although the start is a tad inconspicuous.

By Jim Disney
Sep 26, 2007

A correction on the spelling of one of the members of the FA of the SE Face. Ed Laggart ... should be Ed McTaggart ... both he and Dennis McMillin were climbing partners of mine in those days.
Thanks ... Peace, Jim

By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 27, 2007

Jim,

Obviously I haven't read this in a while so I'm a little late in responding, but that's amazing that you climbed with those guys who put up the register. I figured they were lost to history, so to speak. Do you know anything about what route they took on their first ascent? I should probably be emailing you personally, but I thought it would be of interest to the climbing community to keep this on the website.

Kurt

By Tom Griffiths
Apr 20, 2008

I accidently stumbled across the comments about the "historic summit register" on Anne's Rock. Most of the climbers - Walt Warner, Dalton Garlitz, Denny McMillin, Ed McTaggart, Bill Sitzman, were all members of the Colorado State University Hikers' Club during that era. That portion of the rock below "Anne's Rock was known as Warren's Bust. The Big Thompson served as an easily accessible area from Ft. Collins to do some practice climbs. Placing small registers in a can was not all that unusual back in those days, even in obscure areas. You rarely climbed a small spire in Big Thompson or St. Vrain that didn't have a small register placed by Vin Hoeman, who later died on Dhaulagiri. Remember, there weren't many people in the sport then, and most people thought climbers were crazy. Some were still using hemp rope and army pitons. I remember when we first purchased 7/16" Columbian mountain (laid) nylon ropes through the club, and thought it didn't get any better than that! Other club names that I recall were Darlitz's Folly (Sugarloaf), and The Erection. We once did a direct route from the road up an arete to the top of Pallisade Mountain. It wasn't overly difficult (5.6 or so) but was great fun. Yes, I remember Anne.

Hi to Jim Disney.

Tom Griffiths
Kenai, Alaska

By jbarnum
From: Denver, CO
Jan 25, 2009

After speaking with an employee at Neptune today, what exactly is the protocol for registers like this? It was up there last year, but obviously time has taken its toll. With these posts, it is only a matter of time before someone takes the register-(numerous registers have disappeared)-or damages the fragile papers while viewing it. One afternoon I was up there with other climbers and dare not tough the register for fear it would blow away in the constant wind.

Would anyone be opposed to taking this register and placing it in the collection at Neptune, or Golden soon? If there is a public collection in Estes, that would be more appropriate. I will not move or touch it without a public say so. I would just hate to see the register eventually disappear, as so many things do.

I know this has been discussed, but how about taking a poll?

By allen simons
Feb 19, 2009

I say take it to Neptune's. Al

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 19, 2009

I know I'm not a local, but that seems like the kind of thing that should be protected, and as long as there's a place like Neptune's that collects and cares for that stuff it should be taken there.

By Barry Collins
Feb 22, 2009

Quite the dilemma for sure. The summit of Anne's Rock is in a way its own "museum". The register has endured for 50 yrs, and it's heartening to know that many people have viewed it and chosen to leave it for the next person to experience. Personally I'd rather it stay where it is, where it was placed by the first ascentionist, as they intended it to be. Perhaps a more secure container would be a good idea though....
Barry

By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
Mar 2, 2009

There are 2 routes to the right (southeast I guess) of Dick Van Dike. Does anyone know what they are rated and called? Would be nice to get them added to this site. They are both split into 2 pitches. I climbed only the first today (the one just right of Dick Van Dike) and it felt like a 5.7.

By Matt Quinn
Apr 29, 2009

Debbie, in response to your question about the routes to the right of Dick Van Dike, I believe they are the two routes Tom Kohlmann and I put up. The first is "Love Canal", two short pitches, no consensus, but probably 5.7 and 5.6 and the second is "Crystal Jug" (a big crystal on the route); also, no consensus, probably 5.7 and 5.6. Both are bolted but some pro can be helpful like before the crux on "Love Canal" Can't remember much more about the routes. We did them last year. Matt Quinn

By Bill Farrand
Aug 9, 2009

Just a comment in response to the "Getting There" description saying that the approach is about the same as that to the Animal World buttress up Boulder Canyon. No way! It is about twice as long and all uphill... I mean it is still not bad, but based on that description I was thinking about bringing my old dog along. She has a hard time with steep trails now and I'm glad I didn't. It is a really great crag though... seems there's still some more new route potential there.

By Wes B.
Sep 14, 2009

Directions from the East - Drive west on US Highway 34 for 3.2 miles past the Drake split. Park on the south side of the road (large dirt pullout). Walk 200 yards west and follow the well worn trail to the base (10 - 15 minutes).

By Wes B.
Sep 20, 2009

I just climbed (and added to MP) the two routes right of Dick Van Dyke. They're both fun moderates (5.7) that are well protected. The rock isn't perfect but with a little more traffic it will get better.

I would rank Jug Domes 5.7's accordingly . . . .
Best - Love Canal
Good - Crystal Jug
OK - Shag

By Eric Bratschun
Sep 4, 2013

Climbed at JD today. We hopped on one of the new routes that went up last week on the now furthest left route on the formation (the bolts left of Shag...Growler?). A single 60m rope is all you need. Probably 5.9. Best bring a helmet until this one cleans up. This place must be seeing some use as many of the other routes seemed pretty clean in contrast.... Thanks for the effort from those that put up another fun climb! 2 bolt anchor w/ rap rings.

By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Jul 13, 2014

Re: Approach - currently there are concrete barriers directly across from the "one-car dirt pullout" on the North (non-river) side of the road. This is about 0.3 miles below the handicapped fishing area that sits ~3.2 mi above Drake. Coming downcanyon, if you reach mile marker 73, you've gone too far.

By Debbie McLain
From: Louisville, CO
4 days ago

Does anyone know what the route is on the far east side of the crag? You walk to the climber's right from the start of Crystal Jug down a hill and slightly back up again and there's a route there with 7 bolts and a scramble up to a flaky start. Then a long runout between the last bolt and the anchors. Felt like a 5.8. We should add it to MP.