Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eagle Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Lichen It? S 
Bananarama S 
Black Streak S 
Bunga Bunga S 
Didgemaster S 
Handsome Parish Lady S 
Indecent Insertion S 
Jug Abuse S 
Killer Bee S 
Kona S 
Maalox Moment S 
Manhattan S 
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 
New Wave S 
Old Wave T 
Omdulation Fever S 
Pepto-Dismal S 
Psycho Thriller TR 
Racist Fantasy S 
Top Hat S 
Turkey Baster S 
Tutti Frutti S 
Unnamed Left S 
Unnamed Right S 

Jug Abuse 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rombach and Wezwick
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start up a not so positive slab to a very overhanging wall with some wicked sequential pocket pulling up to a slab that appears blank at first. Navigate the camouflaged pockets to join with the last two clips of Turkey Baster. The crux is between the second and fourth bolt. Be mindfull of the tendons.

Location 

This route is located immediately to the left of Turkey Baster.

Protection 

8 bolts to a two bolt anchor shared with Turkey Baster.


Comments on Jug Abuse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 2, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I thought this was really fun. It isn't very tweaky, which is unusual for a harder Cochiti climb. Instead, the crux involves some big reaches (or lunges) between very positive "jug-pockets". Personally, I thought the hardest move was a huge deadpoint just after clipping the fourth bolt.