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Jug Abuse 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rombach and Wezwick
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008
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Description 

Start up a not so positive slab to a very overhanging wall with some wicked sequential pocket pulling up to a slab that appears blank at first. Navigate the camouflaged pockets to join with the last two clips of Turkey Baster. The crux is between the second and fourth bolt. Be mindfull of the tendons.


Location 

This route is located immediately to the left of Turkey Baster.


Protection 

8 bolts to a two bolt anchor shared with Turkey Baster.



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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 2, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I thought this was really fun. It isn't very tweaky, which is unusual for a harder Cochiti climb. Instead, the crux involves some big reaches (or lunges) between very positive "jug-pockets". Personally, I thought the hardest move was a huge deadpoint just after clipping the fourth bolt.