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Judy's Jaunt is a fun variation to Barfy's Favorite
and a vast improvement over the slightly grungy P3 corner/chimney on that route.
P1/2 - Follow the handcrack pitches of Barfy's
to a ledge with a huge bush and a large, right-facing corner at it's left side. Set your belay on the right side of this ledge, or climb up to a stance 20ish feet off the ledge. 5.7, 200', goes easily as one or two pitches.
P3 - The Jaunt. Follow clean face climbing and discontinuous cracks straight up (slight runouts here), traversing left at the very top of the big corner. Climb straight up through a steep finger crack to gain more face climbing. Move left again to pass a roof on bomber holds and pro, and run the rope out to a suitable belay on lower-angle ground. 5.7, 200 feet.
P4 - Continue up easy ground to the summit.
A standard rack up to #3 Camalot is just fine for this route. Some variety of small cam will prove useful, probably down to Purple Metolius.
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is a really enjoyable route on great rock. Fantastic climbing - way better than the dirty corner finish to Rites of Passage. There seems to be several options as to which path of seams and cracks to follow - but all appear equal in difficulty. Fun fun fun!