Judy's Jaunt  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 29, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Stole this photo from Barfy's Favorite and user John ...

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Description 

Judy's Jaunt is a fun variation to Barfy's Favorite and a vast improvement over the slightly grungy P3 corner/chimney on that route.

P1/2 - Follow the handcrack pitches of Barfy's to a ledge with a huge bush and a large, right-facing corner at it's left side. Set your belay on the right side of this ledge, or climb up to a stance 20ish feet off the ledge. 5.7, 200', goes easily as one or two pitches.

P3 - The Jaunt. Follow clean face climbing and discontinuous cracks straight up (slight runouts here), traversing left at the very top of the big corner. Climb straight up through a steep finger crack to gain more face climbing. Move left again to pass a roof on bomber holds and pro, and run the rope out to a suitable belay on lower-angle ground. 5.7, 200 feet.

P4 - Continue up easy ground to the summit.

Location 

Judy's Jaunt is a variation to Barfy's Favorite. Start on that route, which begins 30 feet left of Central Chimney on a boulder.

Protection 

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot is just fine for this route. Some variety of small cam will prove useful, probably down to Purple Metolius.