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Southern Pillar
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Judgement Seat 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Burns & Webster - 1975
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Brendan on Judgement Seat.

Description 

A cool feature and good, burly climbing.

P1: Begin by climbing up the right sid eof the slot/cave until one can undercling a flake to a sloping ledge and a chimney. Head up the chimney and out the top (awkward) to a crack and a large ledge.

P2: Step right and climb up to a blank roof. Pass this to the right and continue to the top.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By Felix Duvallet
Jun 11, 2012

This is an awesome climb! It is possible to climb all the way to the anchors of Roy Gap Chimneys (P2) in one long pitch if you are careful about rope drag.

A little more description of the route: After the stemming/undercling start, you head up and left into a triangular alcove with a steep crack just above it (there is some fixed gear here). Climb the crack and pull a small roof into a really cool dihedral. Keep climbing up and left to a bolted belay just below the smooth roof.