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The Diamond Wall
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Diamond Edge T 
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Judgement Day 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 149
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Aug 3, 2013

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Prepare for judgement!

Judgement Day starts benea...

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Description 

Judgement Day is pretty bad ass for the grade. Although following cracks it climbs more like a sustained face climb. There is no real crux but the climbing is pretty sustained especially through the middle section. It protect pretty well with a decent amount fixed pro supplemented with gear.

This route follows a incipient system of cracks and flakes that trend diagonally from the the center of the wall to the upper left corner. Start at the base of the right facing flake/roof just right of center at the base of wall. Climb this out to a pin and then head up into a left leaning crack where you will eventually find another pin. From there continue trending left across an overlap to a bolt. From the bolt move up into to the base of a large left facing flake (pin) then traverse the small orange colored wall at the top into another left flake system which you follow up and over.

Location 

In the center of the Diamond wall locate the obvious right trending flake/roof accessed from a higher ledge than the left side of the wall.

You can see a photo of the start here: mountainproject.com/v/10784116...

Protection 

This is a mixed route with one bolt and several pins. Good supplementary gear is possible but take it when it comes. Protects like a face climb with ultimately good but sometimes a little spaced out protection. Bring small gear. Micros through hand size pieces. Because the route wanders a little pay attention to rope drag and use long slings when necessary.

Belay from trees at the top. You can rap down a gully at the back probably with one (60m) rope. Not sure if one rope will get you down the route itself (we used two ropes but one might have worked).

TR is probably tricky.


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By jim.dangle
Aug 3, 2013

This is must do climb for the aspiring hard man or woman especially if you like fine crack and slab climbing because it is neither of those. I was seconding and found it completely and utterly heinous and pumpy. Put me right in my place.

Jim