Jubilant Song 

Climbed with my sweetie 10/24/05.

Another incredible Joe Herbst route, in a beautiful canyon with an absoultely magnificent summit that I never wanted to leave! A Red Rock climb that won't be forgotten!

My two cents.... We had gear up to a #3 but I felt some larger gear would have come in handy in several spots on a few of the pitches. Also...there's a bit of chossy rock to deal with at times.

This was an awesome route. The roof traverse is an incredibly aesthetic line and a great photo op.

When we were there we did not see a single person in the entire canyon: a welcome change after doing crimson chrysalis the previous day.

I think that most 5.7 leaders will be over their heads a bit on this one. Wide gear is getting lighter and you'll appreciate it on pitch 2. It's as good as everyone says, enjoy it!

As an alternate to the water streak for P6-P7, jodie b. nicely lead the corner up and slightly right of the large oak (at the top of the gully). This seemed like a nice variation to a scary, largely unprotected water streak.

At all costs link pitches 4 and 5. I've now done it both ways and the hanging belay from the detached block at the end of p4 is unnerving. The start of p5 puts the leader's butt in the belayer's face right at a crux sequence with a potential lead fall directly on to the anchor.

Linking the pitches requires some thoughtful rope management to avoid rope drag but we managed and the rope fed smooth as silk.

Great route. Get an early start in the winter as trail finding on the way out is random. We were 10.5 hours car to car without too much goofing off.

It'd be tough for a 5.7 leader as there are some run outs. The 5.8 section was more like easy 5.7. I thought the Crux was the 2nd pitch.

I had a single rack with doubles on 2" and 3". That was plenty.

Prod.

While the water streak is probably too much for the 5.7/5.8 leader, it is a beautiful pitch with fun moves on excellent rock. While you can't put gear in wherever you like, the pitch does protect and is a lot of fun.

Fantastic climb with a remote feel. This wall starts high up, so the approach has significant vertical gain. The roof on P5 is burly and was led by my partner with difficulty. Seconding, I climbed up the fridge-sized "loose block" on the right and so bypassed the burly roof. I thought the hanging belay was pretty cool and great for photo ops. But I'd skip it next time.

The P7 "water streak" is out of character with the rest of the route in that serious injury is possible for a shaky leader. If you follow the chalk, there is a 30 foot section of sustained 5.8 smearing/stemming with tiny edges for handholds and only a thin crack near the top for protection. An ugly 20' sliding fall is a real possibility onto the sloping ledge up and right from the belay, with another 20' of tumbling if you don't stop there. I recommend avoiding this pitch (as shown in the Handren topo) if you are not feeling confident.

On P7 I climbed the water streak but did not follow the chalk. Zig right on a 5.7 upward traverse, then zag left on an unprotected 5.4R ramp, rejoining the chalked line above the 30' sustained section. The rock was a bit fragile and it didn't appear anyone had gone this way recently. There is also a single bolt about 40' above here that confused me (apparently, this bolt is on the last pitch of Hot Fudge Thursday). Instead, I moved left and up, past a large detached block lying against the face to easier ground.

The descent is simple by RR standards, the Handren guide's description is perfect.

Beautiful sunny mid-winter day on 19 Dec 09. Got an early start and had an amazing time up this. Made 5 pitches out of it. Scrambled up the first "pitch" then linked P2 and P3, and P4 and P5 through the roof. Ended up with awesome ledges to belay from besides the hanging belay right before the roof section.

Water streaks are a little dicey like mentioned. First one is protected by the only bolt on the route, a rusty quarter-inch with a homemade hangar. Second dicey move is about 30 feet higher but sunk a decent .75 C4 right below it, so a fall there wouldnt be too bad.

Striking views of the greater Vegas area and the entire basin await when you top it out. There is a summit register in an ammo can a bit north of where you top out at, as well as a nice ledge to take the view in from.

Descent is lengthy, hike off the slabs to the west, lots of loose rock. 10 hours car to car with a lot of BSing on the ledges and a good hour on the top hanging out. Have fun!

SR

Definitely recommend combining pitches 4+5, using long runners under the big roof. Also, pretty easy to combine pitches 7+8, you will easily reach the summit with a 60m rope. I actually enjoyed the crux of p7, which i thought was the crux of the route. A bomber .75 c4 is right at your feet, as was mentioned. It is hard to read, but if you figure it out it isn't too bad.

second pitch definitly sustained 5.7 the ENTIRE way. kinda tough!

The trail up to this route is perfectly obvious and easy. We made it to the base of the route in an hour (and we are not triathletes). We chose to build the hanging belay at the end of the P.4 roof pitch, both for aesthetics (it's cool to watch the second come up) and rope management (it' would be hard to string it out to the next belay). The belay isn't bad at all (small cams and nuts in an overhead crack on the left, mid-sized cams in the crack on the right)---and you can definitely paste your feet to the wall. When starting the next pitch, instead of stepping left five feet and surmounting the roof (5.8 and really awkward), you can hand traverse the block out the right side of the roof for five feet and then step up onto the face and back into the line of the route. It's still probably 5.8, but way less awkward. On P.7, (the second water streak pitch) you can easily escape left (5.4) onto a black, varnished wall, then climb straight up (passing the obvious cactus) and take the pitch 100 feet to the top of the 5th class climbing. Jubilant Song is a really fun route with fabulous positions on a high and exposed peak.

After you do the traverse under the huge roof and pull the moves up the following corner, you will suddenly have perfect comprehension of how this route's name came to be...

This is the worst route I've climbed in Red Rocks. The rock is soft and loose, and the route is covered in loose blocks. The "nice climbing" on the first two pitches is a pretty ugly piece of offwidth (bring a couple 4's and a 5). The upper pitches include such gems as a loose traverse, a manky quarter inch bolt, a slick watergroove, and some scrub oak in a dirtfilled chimney.

There are so many good routes in red rocks I can't believe this piece of trash gets any traffic at all. Don't bother with it.

The only saving grace is the well cairned approach and decent trail.

I would advise to disregard what Mr. Manlove has said about this great route. The trail is well marked from the parking lot to the base of the route due to the use the trail sees from hikers summiting Windy Peak. The approach can be done in under an hour. Link the 1st two pitches with a 70m and don't bother to bring anything larger than a #4 Camalot- one will suffice. The crack is wide but can be protected with mid-sized gear. On the traversing pitches the rock is soft but no worse than anything else you'll find on other RR routes. We did not belay off the loose blocks after P4- they seemed sketchy. The rest of the climbing is pretty straightforward with one delicate section of 5.8 climbing but then is cruiser to the top. This route is a great winter route plus there is a great summit with a summit register hidden in an ammo box. Our car to car time was just under 6.5 hours.

Andy, we linked 2-3 with a 70m barely, not 1-2. Best to climb the short first pitch to the ledge then link the next two.

Definitely link 4-5, don't belay off that hanging block, it looks really bad, surmount the roof and around a corner is a nice set of cracks for a belay.

I wish we would have lined 6-7 up the water streak, it would have been more enjoyable but would probably need a 70m as well. A red C3 was key in the p7 crux.

Some people see cold beer, pretty girls, and hear good music bumping on the stereo, and think "this party sucks." This route's a lot of fun. The name is there for a reason. Large hexes work great on the route+save weight, I can see linking helping out, only part that seemed sketchy to me on the whole route was the moves above the junk bolt, once that's replaced, it'll be even more badass.

Agreed, this climb has the whole package, reasonable approach, technical climbing, a little spice, great summit and easy walk off. No more choss than any other RR moderate.

I didn't think the bolt was too manky either but an update might be nice. On par with the run-out on the other pitches it wouldn't be unreasonable to not have it there at all, there's a bomber #2 C4 a bit lower down.

Although I did clip the bolt I would suspect that any other confident leader wouldn't need to clip it at all. The reason I did was because there was a lot of hullabaloo about the moves above the bolt- but those were clearly not 5.8 moves and with that good #2 C4 below you it wouldn't be too nervewracking to have no bolt there. But, to keep the route original (the bolt wasn't put up on the FA was it? Unlikely.) a bolt replacement wouldn't be a bad idea. Overall I would say this route is not burly for the grade as some had indicated. I have certainly been on harder Herbst routes with the same grade.

I would agree with the above comments about the #2 placement where the bolt is. The approach can be hard in my opinion but no reason to not go climb the route. Lighten your rack as much as possible. It has an awesome view and lots of variety with climbing. It was fun pulling some of the roofs while on top rope. We did the climb in about 4hrs two groups. Alex Honnold who started after us did it in about 30 minutes or so. It was really cool watching him climb.

Fun route with an airy 4th pitch. Went up an exciting variation on the last pitch that went out right past a piton, under a roof with a crack in the back. Seemed 5.9ish? Anyone know anything about it? You can link the last two pitches this way.

Also, it seems like starting on "A Song & A Prayer" to the right, up to the ledge would be a better way to start the route.

First to ascend route in 2013! What a great day! No need for anything larger than #3. Beautiful all day sun! Try building anchor just above roof problem above pitch 4. No issues w/ rope drag if done correctly. car to car in 7.5 hours.

Wonderful! Good climbing with a remote and more serious feel to it. Finishes on a summit too, as well as having an inspiring name. Did it on the recommendation of Larry de Angelo - if you happen to see this Larry - thanks from The Brits you met on "Lotta Balls" October 21st.

Jubilant Song - Martin Bennett on the roof traverse. Photo by Alan Blackburn. Submitted By: Martin Bennett on Jan 16, 2013

AWESOME route.

The approach was pretty straightforward. We followed the directions in Handren's guide and found everything no problem. We also discovered a slightly faster way through the dirt roads - taking the second turnoff after the Black Velvet parking(instead of the first one) brings you closer to the 4-way intersection, and skips some very rocky sections of the road.

Someone had broken into a car in the other parking lot (closer to Illusion Crags). Don't leave valuables out here.

We linked P4 and the first part of P5, and then linked the rest of P5, P6, and part of P7. I meant to go around the 5.8 bit in the water streak by taking the 5.4 variation, but missed it, and ended up going through some roofs between those two lines that felt about 5.6/7. Can't wait to go back!