|The Main Wall
|Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>|
Scramble up two stair-cased broken pillars to access a beautiful hand crack that finishes with a tapering thin crux. For the 5.12 R finish, climb straight up past the chains to the rim. For gear, the guide recommends 'a strong head.'
20' left of Gold Rush. Look for the obvious broken pillars that mark the start.
BD .75-3 with an emphasis on the .75-2 range.
Dec 13, 2012
The fullest-value version of JR:
Start in a finger crack/shallow left-facing corner on the left side of the broken pillar, which is 5.10 liebacking off the ground. Climb the normal route. From the anchor, step left into a steep finger crack with face holds, which leads up into a corner and on to the 2nd anchor at the very top of the wall. This is TR-able with a 70m rope, but not a 60 unless you do all sorts of pillar-scrambling shenanigans and other scary stuff.
|By Jon Rhoderick|
May 19, 2013
There are two extensions to this route, the JR extension heads left out of a roof while Immortal Illusions tackles the overhang to the right, with your last pro in the horizontal.
|By Jack Lazar|
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014
You can protect against the potential pendulum when moving up into the JR Token extension with gear smaller than BD .75. I used a #2 mastercam (.4 BD) after stepping left past the 1st set of chains. Useful info to know, esp. since you might want those larger pieces for JR Token proper.