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JR Token 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Rich and friends, mid '80s
Page Views: 7,148
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Lenka Stafl on JR Token. Photo by Max Tepfer.

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


Scramble up two stair-cased pillars to access a beautiful hand crack. Follow this down through the sizes to a tapering thin crux.

For the 5.12 R finish, climb straight up past the chains to the rim. For gear, the guide recommends 'a strong head.' (don't clip the chains, good gear can be found in the horizontal on the right wall that better directs your fall off the crux)


20' left of Gold Rush. Look for the obvious broken pillars that mark the start.


BD .75-3 with an emphasis on the .75-2 range.

Photos of JR Token Slideshow Add Photo
Alix on JR Token
Alix on JR Token
Adrian from Idaho on JR. Photo by Max Tepfer.
Adrian from Idaho on JR. Photo by Max Tepfer.
Me on JR. Photo by Brian G.
Me on JR. Photo by Brian G.
Thad warms up on JR Token. Photo by Lenka.
Thad warms up on JR Token. Photo by Lenka.
The entire route in its glory
The entire route in its glory
JR on Halloween
JR on Halloween
Dr. Sciences redpointing 'JR Token' at Trout Creek
Dr. Sciences redpointing 'JR Token' at Trout Creek

Comments on JR Token Add Comment
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By blakeherrington
Dec 13, 2012

The fullest-value version of JR:

Start in a finger crack/shallow left-facing corner on the left side of the broken pillar, which is 5.10 liebacking off the ground. Climb the normal route. From the anchor, step left into a steep finger crack with face holds, which leads up into a corner and on to the 2nd anchor at the very top of the wall. This is TR-able with a 70m rope, but not a 60 unless you do all sorts of pillar-scrambling shenanigans and other scary stuff.
By Jon Rhoderick
May 19, 2013

There are two extensions to this route, the JR extension heads left out of a roof while Immortal Illusions tackles the overhang to the right, with your last pro in the horizontal.
By Jack Lazar
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014

You can protect against the potential pendulum when moving up into the JR Token extension with gear smaller than BD .75. I used a #2 mastercam (.4 BD) after stepping left past the 1st set of chains. Useful info to know, esp. since you might want those larger pieces for JR Token proper.
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