|145 page views|
This is on Upper Etive Slabs (see JAFC-Just Another Face Climb for approach info).
Take a steep line up crimps past 2 bolts just right of JAFC (crux). Located just behind a dead tree. After the 2 bolts, it slabs out for about 100 feet to a tree in a scoop, belay at the tree.
P2 - From here you see a right angling (almost horizontal) 5.9 crack. Climb above this, and slightly left to a bolt, and clear the roof on some really lousy loose crimpers. Then angles to the right above the roof on the slab (neither the leader, or 2nd would probably want to fall over the roof). I followed this, and I gave it an s rating since I feel it deserves it (runout), dont remember if the book has it that way? This 2nd pitch might also be intended as a completely different route, but was the logical finish to pitch one. Decent... you could walk off, or, downclimb to the climbers left (5.1 or 2??), and pick up a double rope rap from a bolted anchor about 100 feet down from the top. Nice climb, but, needs some cleaning, or more mileage...
Quickdraws, only need handful (6 or 7?).