|Type:||Trad, TR, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Nate Harris on Jun 1, 2002|
|CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2005
Given that the crack at the crux is around 8" wide, I wouldn't haul up a lot of big cams - they won't fit! I think the only piece that might fit in this section is a #4 Big Bro (expandable tube chock). This is not required, but you would probably fall 20' if you fell here.
I discovered a better protected variation about 6' right of the crux wide crack. The rock is a bit friable here, but at least you can get in gear. I went straight up when the crack zigs left, then traversed back left a higher horizontal crack. With this variation you don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot.
By Luis Barandiaran
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|Despite the ground fall potential, staying in the crack is not bad, especially when using face holds left of the crack. Don't really think of this as a 5.7, more like 5.6, especially after watching Danny and Dave climb Initial Route on Hitler's Sex Life a couple hundred yards down the road (5.7). Now that's full-value 5.7!|