This route is the best of the 3 routes on this crag. It follows the obvious wide crack on the right. Hike up and right, to the low point of the rock.
Climb up and around a flake, then up the widening crack for 15 feet, then step over to the left where the crack zig-zags. Continue up the offwidth to the top.
This is a fairly easy offwidth crack, and can be made easier by utilizing face holds. If you don't feel like leading it, hike around to the north, and go up the descent route. A good toprope anchor can be constructed at the top.
SR with a couple larger pieces, up to a #4 or #4.5 Camalot.
Nate on one of his first trad leads.
Joy Crack... 5.6
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2005
Given that the crack at the crux is around 8" wide, I wouldn't haul up a lot of big cams - they won't fit! I think the only piece that might fit in this section is a #4 Big Bro (expandable tube chock). This is not required, but you would probably fall 20' if you fell here.
I discovered a better protected variation about 6' right of the crux wide crack. The rock is a bit friable here, but at least you can get in gear. I went straight up when the crack zigs left, then traversed back left a higher horizontal crack. With this variation you don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot.
|By Luis Barandiaran|
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Despite the ground fall potential, staying in the crack is not bad, especially when using face holds left of the crack. Don't really think of this as a 5.7, more like 5.6, especially after watching Danny and Dave climb Initial Route on Hitler's Sex Life a couple hundred yards down the road (5.7). Now that's full-value 5.7!