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First Door T,TR 
Joy T,TR 
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Nate Harris on Jun 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Joy Crack, 5.6.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route is the best of the 3 routes on this crag. It follows the obvious wide crack on the right. Hike up and right, to the low point of the rock.

Climb up and around a flake, then up the widening crack for 15 feet, then step over to the left where the crack zig-zags. Continue up the offwidth to the top.

This is a fairly easy offwidth crack, and can be made easier by utilizing face holds. If you don't feel like leading it, hike around to the north, and go up the descent route. A good toprope anchor can be constructed at the top.


SR with a couple larger pieces, up to a #4 or #4.5 Camalot.

Photos of Joy Slideshow Add Photo
Nate on one of his first trad leads.
Nate on one of his first trad leads.
Joy Crack... 5.6
Joy Crack... 5.6

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2005

Given that the crack at the crux is around 8" wide, I wouldn't haul up a lot of big cams - they won't fit! I think the only piece that might fit in this section is a #4 Big Bro (expandable tube chock). This is not required, but you would probably fall 20' if you fell here.

I discovered a better protected variation about 6' right of the crux wide crack. The rock is a bit friable here, but at least you can get in gear. I went straight up when the crack zigs left, then traversed back left a higher horizontal crack. With this variation you don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot.
By Luis Barandiaran
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Despite the ground fall potential, staying in the crack is not bad, especially when using face holds left of the crack. Don't really think of this as a 5.7, more like 5.6, especially after watching Danny and Dave climb Initial Route on Hitler's Sex Life a couple hundred yards down the road (5.7). Now that's full-value 5.7!
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