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Coney Island
Routes Sorted
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Angry Dragon 
Another Way T 
Badger Traverse, The S 
Bait, The T,S 
Dampened Enthusiasm S 
Der Letzte Zug S 
Die Reeperbahn S 
Feeding the Beast S 
Fly Swatter S 
Fly Trap S 
Gagger S 
Give the Dog a Bone S 
Joy Ride S 
Lucky Strikes Again S 
New Fanatic S 
Pri-Moe T,S 
Prong S 
Quintet T 
Red Badger S 
Runaway S 
Twist and Shout S 
Work It On Out S 
Unsorted Routes:

Joy Ride 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jessie Guthrie, 1991
Page Views: 2,632
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Good shot of most of the route.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Joy Ride is a great climb on perfect stone but is by no means the end of great climbing on Coney Island. To the right, Der Letzte Zug and Die Reeperbahn offer more difficult but terrific problems on perfect stone. Joy Ride, like Die Letzte Zug, begins at the top of the saddle in a small talus field. The climbing starts on a short slab (5.11) adjacent to a thin right angling seam and heads directly to a small overlap. Hang on for some superb technical face climbing on great edges and side pulls. A bit of handy-work and a good jam under the overlap set up the move, and the technical crux to the climb at about 25 feet. This is a very long reach (!) with the feet akwardly out sight and under the overlap. If you slip right past the crux (5.12b if you are short), don't get too cocky;. the pump just mounts. After very continuous 5.11 climbing, and after another awkward move at 65 feet, Joy Ride delivers a second crux at 5.11d/5.12a. Even then the climbing isn't over. Another difficult move from a good stance, that has right hand and left hand solutions at 5.11d has to be mastered before being deposited at the anchors, just above a good ledge. Three stars for the quality of the rock, the climbing moves, the mental problem solving, and the continuity.


Protection 

QDs only. 8-9 draws takes you to a double bolt anchor at about 80 feet. This route had a couple of bolts added back in 1996 making the run-out in the middle now very comfortable.



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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2001

An excellent climb. One of the better 12bs in Boulder Canyon.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Not quite Plan B, although still an excellent route at the grade.

By tom selleck
Jul 8, 2007

Super fun route. Some may want a wire before bolt #1.

By Jesse Guthrie
From: Prague Czech Republic
Mar 7, 2008

This route was originally 5.12b, because when I first did the route there were 2 less bolts than now... someone adding bolts without asking... bad style... and it was a real sport climb... not just another Boulder Canyon Sport Park fiasco....
Jesse Guthrie

By EJM
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really enjoy this route.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 23, 2011

Great route. Climbs the steep face on upper Coney Island just to the left of Der LetzeZug. This route is pretty sustained once you leave the ground. There is a burly move pulling the small roof around the second bolt with some continuous in-your-face near vertical, tech slab climbing with some nice, small crimps. About 3/4 of the way up is a flat ledge where you can get a no hands rest (take it cause you will need it) for the second distinct crux just after the rest. Awesome route, one of the better 12b's in the Canyon. Significantly easier than its neighbor. You may want to stick clip the first bolt or place a small cam in the crack given that it's fairly high on a technical slab.

By Mark Wiranowski
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route. Several moves where height helps a lot, including the bottom roof, a reachy move in the technical face climbing, and the final crux after the rest. Be sure to unclip the top draw if toproping.

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I found this route much easier than 'The Ticket', both similar with breaks, I am tall though....

A cam is nice before the first roof to assure the clip, we had nuts, but a #2 BD or small cam would fit in the area, several options. The fall how be it slight, might not be fun.

...Jesse's comment is funny, is a route grade harder because it has less protection?

By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Jun 1, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is way hard for me. Usually I can do 12b in a day yet I've worked this route probably four days and have yet to do the crux. I would argue that Lucid Dreaming and amazing face both classic 12+ have an easier crux than this, but maybe I just have shitty footwork. Nonetheless, this climb is fantastic and a must do for Boulder Canyon.

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

First, a route is not harder because it has less protection. It is scarier and deserves more of a PG-13 or R rating, but harder is not what it would be, in my opinion. Also, Coney Island may have begun as a mixed crag, but it's a full on sport crag now with draws on most of the climbs. I think bolting a bolt on Give A Dog A Bone so you don't have to bring up a Cam is totally fine and not in bad style or form. That being said, I did not bolt the route and thank Jessie A TON for putting it up! Sick lines all of these.

On the last guy that posted, the crux is definitely in the 12b range, no harder. The Pursuit of Frappiness has a crux that is similar in difficulty on Avalon. It takes some getting used to, but if you get the right beta, it's all about trusting the feet and working them up! If you want any beta on the route or anything, just e-mail me or ask! Good luck up there!