Joy Ride 5.12b
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Description Joy Ride is a great climb on perfect stone but is by no means the end of great climbing on Coney Island. To the right, Der Letzte Zug and Die Reeperbahn offer more difficult but terrific problems on perfect stone. Joy Ride, like Die Letzte Zug, begins at the top of the saddle in a small talus field. The climbing starts on a short slab (5.11) adjacent to a thin right angling seam and heads directly to a small overlap. Hang on for some superb technical face climbing on great edges and side pulls. A bit of handy-work and a good jam under the overlap set up the move, and the technical crux to the climb at about 25 feet. This is a very long reach (!) with the feet akwardly out sight and under the overlap. If you slip right past the crux (5.12b if you are short), don't get too cocky;. the pump just mounts. After very continuous 5.11 climbing, and after another awkward move at 65 feet, Joy Ride delivers a second crux at 5.11d/5.12a. Even then the climbing isn't over. Another difficult move from a good stance, that has right hand and left hand solutions at 5.11d has to be mastered before being deposited at the anchors, just above a good ledge. Three stars for the quality of the rock, the climbing moves, the mental problem solving, and the continuity.
Protection QDs only. 8-9 draws takes you to a double bolt anchor at about 80 feet. This route had a couple of bolts added back in 1996 making the run-out in the middle now very comfortable.
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2001
| An excellent climb. One of the better 12bs in Boulder Canyon. |
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12a/b
| Excellent route. |
By tom selleck
Jul 8, 2007
| Super fun route. Some may want a wire before bolt #1. |
By Jesse Guthrie
From: Prague Czech Republic
Mar 7, 2008
| This route was originally 5.12b, because when I first did the route there were 2 less bolts than now... someone adding bolts without asking... bad style... and it was a real sport climb... not just another Boulder Canyon Sport Park fiasco....
Jesse Guthrie |
By EJM
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| Really enjoy this route. |
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 23, 2011
| Great route. Climbs the steep face on upper Coney Island just to the left of Der LetzeZug. This route is pretty sustained once you leave the ground. There is a burly move pulling the small roof around the second bolt with some continuous in-your-face near vertical, tech slab climbing with some nice, small crimps. About 3/4 of the way up is a flat ledge where you can get a no hands rest (take it cause you will need it) for the second distinct crux just after the rest. Awesome route, one of the better 12b's in the Canyon. Significantly easier than its neighbor. You may want to stick clip the first bolt or place a small cam in the crack given that it's fairly high on a technical slab. |
By Mark Wiranowski
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Great route. Several moves where height helps a lot, including the bottom roof, a reachy move in the technical face climbing, and the final crux after the rest. Be sure to unclip the top draw if toproping. |
By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.12a
| I found this route much easier than 'The Ticket', both similar with breaks, I am tall though....
A cam is nice before the first roof to assure the clip, we had nuts, but a #2 BD or small cam would fit in the area, several options. The fall how be it slight, might not be fun.
...Jesse's comment is funny, is a route grade harder because it has less protection? |
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