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The Ark
Routes Sorted
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Atheist Childhood S 
Bazooka Face S 
Born Again S 
Joy of Heresy S 
July Jihad S 
Last Starfighter, The S 
Ocean of Terror S 
Shaared S 
Unsubstantiated Propaganda S 

Joy of Heresy 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Huey
Page Views: 1,915
Submitted By: Johnny D on Sep 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Stellar! Low on the route

Description 

The setting, steepness, and variety of climbing styles on this route put it among the top three 11s at Ten Sleep. A bouldery crux between bolts 3 & 4, leads to another 10 bolts of brilliant climbing. Keep your eyes open for the cool mono pockets and fossils on this route up high.

Location 

The first route to the right of the large crack that splits the back side of the arc

Protection 

13 Bolts to bolted anchor


Photos of Joy of Heresy Slideshow Add Photo
Lawrence in the crux section of Joy of Heresy.
Lawrence in the crux section of Joy of Heresy.
Joy of Heresy <br /> <br />Zoom in to see the red X indicating the bolt line
BETA PHOTO: Joy of Heresy Zoom in to see the red X indicating...
Yours truly on the best 5.11 in Tensleep(?). Kate Mcdevitt photo.
Yours truly on the best 5.11 in Tensleep(?). Kate ...
At what I found to be the final crux.
At what I found to be the final crux.
The beauty of the Ark... some of the best 11s and 12s in Tensleep and not another party at the crag.
The beauty of the Ark... some of the best 11s and ...

Comments on Joy of Heresy Add Comment
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By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This line is the most striking line on the Ark, it really is a thing of beauty. Brilliant climbing, do this route!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 27, 2011

excellent route. The most memorable send for me in my trip to ten sleep.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

There's a point on this route where I clipped from a mono, stared directly at a fossil the size of my forearm right at eye level, then reached up and grabbed another mono.

Stellar movement, stellar rock, stellar position. DO IT!

And do July Jihad while you're up there!
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Sep 17, 2012

Yup, definitely on the short list for best 11s out here! Fantastic climbing with no distinct crux (maybe the monos, but the feet are so good there). Sustained from about bolts 4-9... hang on!
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 15, 2013

5 star. The bee's knees!
By Alex Gaskin
From: Athens, Georgia
Sep 3, 2013

So the mono's seemed out of place to me. I mean two perfect, sinker mono's in a row? My senses were telling me its too good to be true. With that skepticism and the fact that the route is named "Joy in Heresy" (the heresy being the man made holds and the joy the way it climbs) I began to wonder why this gets five stars, but Hebiggum got "stripped of its starts" because a nasty rumor that it was fabricated. Can someone explain?