Joy of Heresy 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Huey |
| Submitted By: | FC John on Sep 6, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Joy of Heresy
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Description The setting, steepness, and variety of climbing styles on this route put it among the top three 11s at Ten Sleep. A bouldery crux between bolts 3 & 4, leads to another 10 bolts of brilliant climbing. Keep your eyes open for the cool mono pockets and fossils on this route up high.
Location The first route to the right of the large crack that splits the back side of the arc
Protection 13 Bolts to bolted anchor
Stellar! Low on the route
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At what I found to be the final crux.
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Yours truly on the best 5.11 in Tensleep(?). Kate ...
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Lawrence in the crux section of Joy of Heresy.
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The beauty of the Ark... some of the best 11s and ...
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| Comments on Joy of Heresy |
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By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| This line is the most striking line on the Ark, it really is a thing of beauty. Brilliant climbing, do this route! |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Jul 27, 2011
| excellent route. The most memorable send for me in my trip to ten sleep. |
By Toby B
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.11d
| There's a point on this route where I clipped from a mono, stared directly at a fossil the size of my forearm right at eye level, then reached up and grabbed another mono.
Stellar movement, stellar rock, stellar position. DO IT!
And do July Jihad while you're up there! |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 17, 2012
| Yup, definitely on the short list for best 11s out here! Fantastic climbing with no distinct crux (maybe the monos, but the feet are so good there). Sustained from about bolts 4-9... hang on! |
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