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Routes in (a) East Wall
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Fragile Life S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Joy Luck Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Membership Expired S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sin and Redemption S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Straight, No Chaser S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | David Tvedt, 2001 |
| Page Views: | 3,335 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012 |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Fire Closures, until at least Oct 26, 2023
Details
As per NF and local official orders, this is in the closure area for the Bedrock fire.
Description
After a short slab and bulge, launch into a relentless overhang, traversing right (crux?) about six bolts up. The first half features relatively straightforward reaches between good underclings and sidepulls, while the second half has far more holds to choose between, making it easy to get off track. Savor any holds you can pull down on, because there aren't many of them!
There is an optional 5.7 second pitch that tops out.
There is an optional 5.7 second pitch that tops out.
Location
JLC is on the right hand side of the overhanging wall. It has chains on two of its bolts and a rightward traverse about halfway up.
You can easily set a toprope on this route. Hike to the top and rappel off a pair of glue-ins (the correct anchor is just below a large bent cold shut) down to the lip of the overhang, where there are two sets of anchors next to each other. The JLC anchor is the one that's to the right and slightly lower, and it's directly across from a tall fir tree. If you set a TR, make sure to put in lots of directionals, as the route traverses a decent amount in addition to being overhung.
You can easily set a toprope on this route. Hike to the top and rappel off a pair of glue-ins (the correct anchor is just below a large bent cold shut) down to the lip of the overhang, where there are two sets of anchors next to each other. The JLC anchor is the one that's to the right and slightly lower, and it's directly across from a tall fir tree. If you set a TR, make sure to put in lots of directionals, as the route traverses a decent amount in addition to being overhung.
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