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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
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Joy and Tribulation 
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Unsorted Routes:

Joy and Tribulation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mayrose and O'Herrick, 1970
Page Views: 2,829
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Aug 11, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Stemming just before switching cracks. This is st...
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Description 

Begin up around the corner to the left from the start of Melvin's Wheel at a prominent, left-angling crack.

P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left-facing corner and belay.

P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet at the level of the TCUs, work right across the slab (5.9) and into an easy crack system. Follow this all the way up to the large ledge. Move the belay over to the bottom of the obvious steep chimney.

P3 Climb up past a severely mangled fixed pin and into the chimney. Squeeze past the bottom of the wide slot on the left to a stance, the step right across the chimney to a great finger crack. Stem and finger lock your way up to the roof, which is passed on the left side. Continue to the bolted rap anchor (around the corner to the left at the top).

P3 is a fantastic, steep, and intimidating lead. Solid for the grade, strenuous, and fun. Mix this with the Original Fantasy Ridge to bypass the dicey 5.9 on P2.


Protection 

Standard Lumpy rack. TCUs useful on P2.



Photos of Joy and Tribulation Slideshow Add Photo
The chimney pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The chimney pitch.
Start of the route. Taken 11/7/2004.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route. Taken 11/7/2004.
CM leading the 1st pitch.
CM leading the 1st pitch.
Starting the exquisite chimney pitch.
Starting the exquisite chimney pitch.
Climbing above "severely mangled fixed pin" on pitch 3.
Climbing above "severely mangled fixed pin" on pit...
Stemming at the roof.
Stemming at the roof.
Second pitch near the end.
Second pitch near the end.
Joy and Tribulation overview.
BETA PHOTO: Joy and Tribulation overview.
Approaching the roof.
Approaching the roof.
Joe is following the final fun chimney section on P3....
Joe is following the final fun chimney section on ...
The chimney.
BETA PHOTO: The chimney.
Comments on Joy and Tribulation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Much has already been said about P2 on the Fantasy Ridge page; I'll only add that the cam placements in the crack above the bolt seemed solid. You can get blue, green AND yellow Aliens in the same crack. Yes, I plugged in all three.

P3 is a fantastic crack pitch. Steep and sustained with great pro. This pitch is pushing 5.9, IMO.

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Jun 20, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The ancient bolt has been replaced by a nice new one. I felt pretty good about the pro in the flaring crack above the bolt on P2. However, by the time I traversed right I was 10 feet above it-yikes! P3 for the second is a gas. Punching in gear on lead was pretty pumpy for my leader. Both of us felt P3 was .9. P2 was much easier. I really liked this route!

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Jun 30, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I climbed this route again and found if the chimney is climbed using chimneying (sp?) technique a couple of hands free rests can be had, and it was much less stressful than the 1st time climbing it as a slab/crack. The section of the climb mentioned is above the climber in the photo.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 16, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Bit o' beta: You can protect P3 with #3 Camalot & smaller, double #1 & #2 are useful, unless you brought hexes. Feet to the big, sloping ledge before you move to the R crack. It's not nearly as hard as it looks. Definitely fun & worth the effort.

Anyone know where is the Alpinisten Chimney?

By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Oct 11, 2007

The chimney pitch is absolutely amazing! In the wide section down low there is currently a fixed #3 Camalot just left of the scary pin.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 18, 2008

The 3rd pitch is one of the top ten 5.9 pitches at Lumpy. It has everything from bomber hands, stemming, face, and a few chimney moves.

By flynn
Jan 27, 2010

I'd second comments that think the third pitch is 5.9. It felt a lot like Conads to me.

By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Aug 14, 2011

One of the beta photos incorrectly depicts the first and second pitch. The narrative description gives the best option. Move right out out of the slanting crack at about 30 feet above the ground and on to the face. You can continue up the wide slanting crack through short brushy sections but then you would miss the bolted slab. I have done it both ways and the slab is not to be missed (while the bushes are). My 2 cents.