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Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 20
votes
Routes in Turkey Tail
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Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Consternation T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Drumstick Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eclipse T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fuzzy Caterpillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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In Search of Unicorns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turkey's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: |
Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
Fixed Hardware
(9) |
| FA: | Leonard Coyne, Henry Lester, Peter Mayfield, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 5,151 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Anderson on Feb 12, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
This route is located on the far right edge of Turkey Tail and is considered a classic.
P1. Locate a roof about 20' up behind a big pine tree. Step off a boulder, and make a long reach between cracks to a fixed pin. The crux section involves strenuous lieback/undercling moves on insecure footholds. It's much harder than it looks. Lucky for you, it's protected by a bolt. Another bolt awaits at the lip of the roof where you can get a rest. Pulling the roof is also strenuous, especially if you're short, then another bad rest, and more hard moves. By the time you get to the slab above, your toes will be thoroughly worked, and the final easy moves will feel hard. A 60' rap gets you back on the ground, but you might need to TR to clean your gear, or have someone follow.
I didn't think it was anything spectacular (I prefer splitter cracks), but it kept my attention and is solid for the grade.
As Per MP User Mark Rolofson
Pitch 2 ascends the slab with a very thin crack protected by RPs & small stoppers. Reach a horizontal break & clip a bolt. Traverse right to join Roofus at its semi hanging belay. We rated this pitch 5.10d.
Pitch 3 is the second pitch of Roofus (I spelled it Rufus in my 1984 & 1988 guidebooks). This pitch is rated .11d, but the finger jamming moves over the first roof are the hardest moves on the climb. It is easily .12a. It feels especially difficult after doing the first two pitches. There is a short 5.3 fourth pitch to the top.
P1. Locate a roof about 20' up behind a big pine tree. Step off a boulder, and make a long reach between cracks to a fixed pin. The crux section involves strenuous lieback/undercling moves on insecure footholds. It's much harder than it looks. Lucky for you, it's protected by a bolt. Another bolt awaits at the lip of the roof where you can get a rest. Pulling the roof is also strenuous, especially if you're short, then another bad rest, and more hard moves. By the time you get to the slab above, your toes will be thoroughly worked, and the final easy moves will feel hard. A 60' rap gets you back on the ground, but you might need to TR to clean your gear, or have someone follow.
I didn't think it was anything spectacular (I prefer splitter cracks), but it kept my attention and is solid for the grade.
As Per MP User Mark Rolofson
Pitch 2 ascends the slab with a very thin crack protected by RPs & small stoppers. Reach a horizontal break & clip a bolt. Traverse right to join Roofus at its semi hanging belay. We rated this pitch 5.10d.
Pitch 3 is the second pitch of Roofus (I spelled it Rufus in my 1984 & 1988 guidebooks). This pitch is rated .11d, but the finger jamming moves over the first roof are the hardest moves on the climb. It is easily .12a. It feels especially difficult after doing the first two pitches. There is a short 5.3 fourth pitch to the top.
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