Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brush Turkey 
Captain Hook 
Chop, The 
Double Trouble 
Drumstick Direct 
East Side Story 
Easy Offwidth 
For Turkeys Only 
Gobble This 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack 
I Turkey/ Resurrection 
In Search of Unicorns 
Inner Reaches 
Jello Party 
Johnny Lat 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 
Left Side of the Key 
Live Fire 
Make the Cut 
Piece of Cake 
Quivering Quill 
Rasmussen Crack 
Spider Lady 
Squeeze Chimney 
Turkey in the Straw 
Turkey Turd 
Turkey's Delight 
Whimsical Dreams 
Wild Turkey 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) 

Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne, Henry Lester, Peter Mayfield, 1978
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,314
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Feb 13, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


This route is located on the far right edge of Turkey Tail and is considered a classic.

P1. Locate a roof about 20' up behind a big pine tree. Step off a boulder, and make a long reach between cracks to a fixed pin. The crux section involves strenuous lieback/undercling moves on insecure footholds. It's much harder than it looks. Lucky for you, it's protected by a bolt. Another bolt awaits at the lip of the roof where you can get a rest. Pulling the roof is also strenuous, especially if you're short, then another bad rest, and more hard moves. By the time you get to the slab above, your toes will be thoroughly worked, and the final easy moves will feel hard. A 60' rap gets you back on the ground, but you might need to TR to clean your gear, or have someone follow.

I didn't think it was anything spectacular (I prefer splitter cracks), but it kept my attention and is solid for the grade.




Mostly thin, one hand-sized piece at the start, then everything else is fingers or smaller and at least 4 QDs for fixed pro.

Comments on Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) Add Comment
Show which comments
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Apr 6, 2008

Redpoint 1997. Do all the pitches. This makes it three star. It is possible to stay right after Rufus all the way to the horizontal.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 19, 2014

Joe Crotty, TJ Brumme, and I replaced the bolts on both pitches with 4" stainless steel glue-ins. We were able to reuse several of the same holes, but a few of the other bolts broke while we were trying to extract them, so we had patch and drill a few new holes. Thanks to the BCC for supplying the hardware