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Journey to a Mushroom Planet 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jerry Handren 1993
Page Views: 3,161
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The weirdness begins on Journey. Photo by Kayte Kn...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A truly classic climb on a system of cracks and features out a relentlessly steep wall and a roof. Once considered a "sport" route due to the fixed trad gear that many thought would always remain. In the last few years it has not had fixed gear and so has seen much fewer ascents.

Perhaps the only downfall to the line is that it is plagued by wetness, this route would see much more climbing if it dried out more often. When it does dry, it is a must climb for anyone who can keep up with this powerful, interesting route that requires some crazy beta. From the double knee-bar start,
to a foot-cam over your head and much more, this Journey is bound to keep you on your toes.

P.S. some folks like to climb it like a crack while others go at it like a powerful burl-fest either way it is likely to kick your ass for a while. So, play it to your strengths.

Location 

Look for the line of fixed gear in the crack.... That's the one....

Protection 

Fixed trad gear with draws in place....
Stick clip the first piece....


Photos of Journey to a Mushroom Planet Slideshow Add Photo
I thought these moves right off the ground were some of the hardest.
I thought these moves right off the ground were so...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 31, 2011
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 24, 2007

the fixed gear was removed from this climb so that folks could lead it while placing gear (i hope some day i can too) as far as i know those who wished to, have sent it... i need to work it so i fixed gear on it today and plan to leave it up for a while so me and anyone who wants can work it with gear in place... if my gear is in the way let me know and i will remove it...

i forgot to bring webbing for the thread that is normally the second clip so right now i have a solid nut in a slightly less perfect location which ill replace with webbing next time im on it...which will be soon...
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 12, 2007

The first placement was two nuts, one has blown out so now there is only one nut for the first piece. The other nut remains dangling from the carabiner.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 13, 2007

there used to be a more elaberate set up on the first piece... when i put the gear back in recently i just put another nut in next to the nasty stuck piece just incase... just put the other nut in and go for it... it looked good when i left it... it prolly just got knocked loose from use...
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 13, 2007

Yeah, it popped when I fell making the 3rd move.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 29, 2007

All of my gear is gone from the route...

if some one took the gear down for ethical purposes thats cool cause i agree that it looks better as a nice clean crack to go at fully trad style... i hope however that the ethics of this person also include getting my gear back to me...

my name is lee hansche and i work at vertical dreams climbing gym in manchester 603-625-6919... i think i had 4or5 nuts and 3or4 draws and a few biners on the route... it all adds up to $$$...
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 29, 2007

Bummer man, hope your gear gets returned.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 30, 2007

i hear that my gear was taken by the same person or persons who took the ladder down at waimea, for ethical purposes... as far as the gear goes, as i said before i just want it back... ill keep my ethical opinions to my self...
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 7, 2008

Lee--

Did you ever get your gear back?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 8, 2008

oh yeah sorry i should have posted this before... i did get my gear back... i decided not to fix gear on it again cause i had other routes i wanted to climb... and didnt feel like playing in the "ethics battle" any more...
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Aug 18, 2008

What gear does this route take?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 19, 2008

it takes a handful of nuts and or small cams... last i looked there was fixed gear up again...
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Aug 19, 2008

bummer... do have any idea weather its dry or not at the moment?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2008

id guess its wet but im not sure... its usually wet when things are wet...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Feb 16, 2009

ok so i was reading the old rumney guide that jay put up on the forum. i came across this route ( one of only 2 routes on this wall at the time!) any ways this was, back then, only aided! and i the caption read.... aid up the 120 degree crack could this be a future 5.14? ..... first i thought that was great! i love seeing how climbing has come so far! second does any one think i would be frowned apon/scolded/yelled at for aiding JTMP? lol =)
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Mike, It's funny how standards evolve.

As for aiding the route, I don't think it would be a problem. Of course, don't pound any pins. If you aid it clean on nuts and cams, no one should have a problem with it. You could check it out for your future free ascent.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Feb 16, 2009

sweet! thanks jay!
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 29, 2011

According to the new guidebook, "Due to bombproof stopper placements, it is a popular practice clean-aid climb (C1). If you do aid the climb, please leave the fixed nuts in place for the 'free' climbers to hang from" (p. 121).
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 30, 2011

as of last week there was only 1 fixed nut and it was right off the ground...
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 31, 2011

I saw that yesterday, it probably could not be removed by the ethical cleaners. Perhaps this is not so bad as it leaves a positive, "Jesus Nut" to start with. I definitely plan on aiding this once I pick up a chest harness that fits.