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Joshua Tree with a small rack
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By mtnmandan
May 24, 2013

I'm attempting to plan a weekend trip out to JT late June. I'm from new england and in LA for the summer, and I don't want to pass up an opportunity to climb at JT. I'm an inexperienced trad leader (hardest lead was a block of 5 pitches of exposed 5.7) comfortable to the 5.8-9 range. Myself and partner (who'd be flying in) are both mainly sport climbers who can lead to 5.10+. TR to 5.11

Are there enough options for routes to make a trip worthwhile? We're looking mainly for pure sport routes (hard to come by, I hear), TR routes (can set up anchors with trad gear), and partly bolted or really short, easy trad routes I can climb with a small rack.
Okay, more like half rack. I've got BD C4s .5-2 and a set of nuts.

Anyone know good options?

As an aside, if anyone is climbing out of LA either gym, JT, or other nearby areas and wants a partner for the summer, PM me! I don't know any climbers in LA and I'm going to go crazy if I'm stuck in a gym all summer!


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By frankstoneline
May 24, 2013

you can find plenty to keep you busy for a while easily. It'll be warm, but morning and evening sessions and you should get your fill. Thin wall in the real hidden valley has a good selection of climbs and you can toprope all of them (mostly off bolted anchors). The park is huge and quite conducive to toproping in many places.


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By joe caps
From Pasadena
May 24, 2013

climb sexy grandma on the old woman. a fun 5.9 bolt clipper that you can set up a TR for some hard face climbing.


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By Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
May 24, 2013
beck on limestone

Buy yourself a 30 to 40 ft length of 9mm or 11mm static from Nomad Ventures when you get there. That plus your rack should make a lot of climbs top rope able.

Heat will be more of an issue than a small rack. Think shade all the time.

Starters....Atlantis, Rock Garden Valley..look around there in the guide book and ask at the store. Those guys/women know a lot.


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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
May 24, 2013

Call me up;.....I live in Joshua Tree and there are lots of cool sport climbs in Joshua Tree. Climb in the Am and PM and you will be fine. (760) 366-9395......during the summer, you will mostly have the place to yourself too...


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By Dave Von Behren
May 25, 2013

frankstoneline wrote:
you can find plenty to keep you busy for a while easily. It'll be warm, but morning and evening sessions and you should get your fill. Thin wall in the real hidden valley has a good selection of climbs and you can toprope all of them (mostly off bolted anchors). The park is huge and quite conducive to toproping in many places.



Ssy it aint so.

i hope no one bolted the top of thin wall.

that is pointless.

oh well, i have a crow bar, and epoxy is cheap.


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By John M Ross
From Fort Lauderdale, Florida
May 25, 2013

Dave Von Behren wrote:
Ssy it aint so. i hope no one bolted the top of thin wall. that is pointless. oh well, i have a crow bar, and epoxy is cheap.



now that will damage the rock more than those bolts did!


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By Dave Von Behren
May 25, 2013

Brennen T wrote:
now that will damage the rock more than those bolts did!


stupid is as stupid does.


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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
May 25, 2013
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"

Call Todd Gordon.


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By alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
May 25, 2013
Start of Pitch 3

SW Corner on Headstone...


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
May 29, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

"I've got BD C4s .5-2 and a set of nuts"

Don't think you need anything more.... almost every climb at Josh is so short - it's over before you know it.

Bring lots of H2O.

"Janes Addiction" great sport climb, shade in late pm.

Have fun, enjoy the non crowds.

"SW Corner on Headstone...

Agree, 100% the must do JT climb.


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By Nathan Stokes
May 29, 2013

JTree is a must do for certain for the experience. Slightly off topic, though Holcomb Valley up in the San Bernardino Mountains has plenty of good sport to keep you occupied when the high desert is scorching in the summer.


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By david doucette
May 30, 2013
Top of Intersection Rock, Joshua Tree NP.

mtndan wrote:
I'm an inexperienced trad leader (hardest lead was a block of 5 pitches of exposed 5.7) comfortable to the 5.8-9 range.


forget the sport climbing, you can clip bolts anywhere ;) if you're coming to josh, you should do trad as it sounds like you got some trad experience. there's been several threads on easier trad leads so do a search here and bring your rack.

a couple of my easy favs;

upper right ski track 5.3
the bong 5.5
the chief 5.5
men with cows heads 5.5
solar technology 5.6
aint nothing but a jtree thing 5.6
gargoyle 5.6

if you're still set on sport, yup todd gordon is the person to call.


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By Gokul
May 30, 2013
At the "summit"

butterfingers make me horny - 5.8 (low crux with easy climbing above)
almost vertical - 5.7
eff four - 5.6 (do this in 2 pitches)


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By mtnmandan
Jun 11, 2013

Hey all, thanks for all the great suggestions! Doesn't look like my original partner will be able to fly in, but I've met a few climbers here already I'm still hoping to make it out this summer. I've still got a few questions left for you guys and gals.

1. Nope, I'm not just interested in sport, so feel free to lay on the (easy) trad routes. Just be sure to look what I've got for a rack above!

2.

Guy Keesee wrote:
"I've got BD C4s .5-2 and a set of nuts" Don't think you need anything more....


Is this true for most climbs? I'm worried about having the right size pieces, not just the right number.

3.
Anyone know a good (read: cheap) way to get out to J Tree? If anyone is heading that way, I'd be glad to repay a ride with a good belay, gas money, beer, eternal gratitude, or any combination thereof!


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jun 11, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

mtndan.... where do you live???

LA is a big place.

and most FA's in the park were done with a small rack of nuts, originally.


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By mtnmandan
Jun 14, 2013

I found a ride out, thanks guys! If any of the rest of you feel like climbing anything sometime, I'm near LAX, Send me a message!


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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Jun 17, 2013

call up when you get out here if you don't have a climbing partner..I climb often and it's nice in the AM and PM...
(760) 366-9395..


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Jun 17, 2013
...

You'd be a FOOL to not take Todd up on his offer!

;-)


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