Mountain Project Logo

Joshua tree sport climbs

Original Post
Aaron covington · · San Diego, ca · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 70

Im headed out to Jtree for a couple of days to climb, my buddies have trad racks but I'm only set up for sport. Wondering what some of the better sport climbs are with bolted anchors! don't want to run into any problems after completing the climb. Mainly in the 5.10 range, possibly 5.11 if I'm feeling good. Lets here it people, Give me the classics!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

A guidebook would be a good start:

amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Josh…

Aaron covington · · San Diego, ca · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 70

Agreed and a guide book I will be getting, Im looking for more personal favorites tho

Mike F · · Arden, NC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 56

I really like Jane's addiction(11b):

mountainproject.com/v/janes…

In the same area if you can borrow one #3, and don't mind a bit of a run out on more moderate terrain to the anchors is the mega-classic dog day afternoon:

mountainproject.com/v/dog-d…

Some more beta here:

- joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsG…

- joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsG…

Aaron covington · · San Diego, ca · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 70

Thanks mike! looks like an awesome climb. Im looking forward to climbing it

MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 66
Aaron covington wrote:Give me the classics!
To get you started: 5.9 to 5.11d with 3+ stars
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Aaron... I hope it warms up some.

There is a great Sport climb... 5.9ish ... I forget name... on the left end of the Short Wall in IC. starts right out of a campground, located in a sunny alcove.

It pretty good with a thoughtful crux, Im surprised its not listed on MP cause its good.

Janes Addiction is really really good, esp on a cold windy day cause its protected from the wind and gets good sun in the am.

Not sport, but Sphincter Quits,5.9 on sports challenge, gets the first sun in the am, also protected from wind.

Happy 2015 to all

Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41

I really liked a 5.9 on the old woman called sexy grandma. I think it is a sport route with 3 or 4 bolts and a pin.

I also really liked bebop tango 5.11a overhanging jug haul. However, this is shady and cold. Fun route that is worth your time finding it.

Another good one is roller coaster 5.11b just to the left of the classic rollerball route.

The gunsmoke is also always a great option.

Rob M · · Shangri-LA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 20

Sexy Grandma is good. MUST do Loose Lady. Stitcher Quits at Echo Rock.

Rolf Rybak · · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 426

Physical Graffitti 11A, a classic, Twister 11A, LA Women 11A
Black Stallion 10 D
The Paw 10 c/d
Dog day Afternoon 10B PG
Run for your Life 10B PG
Lubricated Goat and Bish 10B
Heart and Soul 10A
Loose Lady 5.9
Rock Candy 5.9

And favourites of that bunch are Run for your Life, take a #3- 5 wire for the runout at the top, Dog Day Afternoon with a few pieces to 3", Physical Graffitti is just amazing.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

I love how so many people call any bolted climb a "Sport Climb".

What the fuck?

LOL!

susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,756

It's true Locker, bolted doesn't necessarily equate to "sport" but you know very well there are hundreds out there (please don't make me count how many are worthy).

First time to JTree and getting your feet under you... Try hitting up the SW Face Center (The Solarium) near Echo Cove. Sport bolted with matching anchors that fit the bill (thank you Bob Gaines) you'll find some/one that requires gear but you get the drift, you'll be fine. After that head left as Rolf mentioned over to the Maw & Paw both of which can be done without gear or supplemental if needed. Anchors and lower-offs right there.

Tons to do. Keep digging but that's a half day for you right there. Want to pump the grade... walk across the way to Physical Graffiti and bring runners to do it in a single push. Bolted and anchors.

This debate could go on awhile but if you've only got a couple of days.... that will burn nearly one plus TONS of other stuff bolted/mixed/trad in the area.

Happy Craggin'

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 364

where is Twister?

Jeff Scofield · · Yorba Linda, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 476

Think Locker's Point was Subject status was "sport climbs" and most if not all the routes listed are not sport climbs....

Ryan Kempf · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 371

1st pitch of Solid Gold is a mega classic bolted pitch, and no Locker... it's not a "sport" climb. Plus this would get you off the beaten path and to a beautiful, slightly remote area of the park.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"Plus this would get you off the beaten path and to a beautiful, slightly remote area of the park."

Ryan,

why would ANYONE want to do that when they can stand in line at one of the Hidden Valley climbs that everyone does over and over and over again?

What were you even thinking?
Rolf Rybak · · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 426

Twister is in Indian Cove, a great well protected 11A sport route. Ask Todd Gordon for directions.

Another great 10D/11A that Susan P and I repeated today is Blackjack, right off the road past Lost Horse.

And another, LA Women on Lost Horse wall, a modern well protected Gaines classic

G Halsne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 1,487

Bebop Tango 11a. On the solsby face. Hidden gem! True sport climb. Bolted, overhanging huecos to a slightly overhung crimpy face. Amazing locale... Its like it don't belong in el Arbor at all :)

In fact... Forget everything I just said... Don't go there. Lol

Yes, Physical Graffiti. Classic line... And across the way is a good bolted and sporty line called the Paw 10d on Little Hunk. Just a few... There are more when you search

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Blackjack (10d) is literally right off the road in Lost Horse and really good. For some strange reason nobody does it, but it's a fun route.

mountainproject.com/v/black…

David Pearson · · Bishop · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 110

EBGB!!!

cj8dude · · Ventura, California · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I don't know if this applies to the sport routes at Jtree but the trad route ratings were done awhile back and feel about two grades off the newer ratings imo. I climbed 5.8's that felt like 5.10's everywhere else. Anybody else share this opinion?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
Post a Reply to "Joshua tree sport climbs"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.