Joshua tree sport climbs
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Im headed out to Jtree for a couple of days to climb, my buddies have trad racks but I'm only set up for sport. Wondering what some of the better sport climbs are with bolted anchors! don't want to run into any problems after completing the climb. Mainly in the 5.10 range, possibly 5.11 if I'm feeling good. Lets here it people, Give me the classics! |
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A guidebook would be a good start: |
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Agreed and a guide book I will be getting, Im looking for more personal favorites tho |
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I really like Jane's addiction(11b): |
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Thanks mike! looks like an awesome climb. Im looking forward to climbing it |
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Aaron covington wrote:Give me the classics!To get you started: 5.9 to 5.11d with 3+ stars |
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Aaron... I hope it warms up some. |
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I really liked a 5.9 on the old woman called sexy grandma. I think it is a sport route with 3 or 4 bolts and a pin. |
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Sexy Grandma is good. MUST do Loose Lady. Stitcher Quits at Echo Rock. |
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Physical Graffitti 11A, a classic, Twister 11A, LA Women 11A |
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I love how so many people call any bolted climb a "Sport Climb". |
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It's true Locker, bolted doesn't necessarily equate to "sport" but you know very well there are hundreds out there (please don't make me count how many are worthy). |
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where is Twister? |
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Think Locker's Point was Subject status was "sport climbs" and most if not all the routes listed are not sport climbs.... |
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1st pitch of Solid Gold is a mega classic bolted pitch, and no Locker... it's not a "sport" climb. Plus this would get you off the beaten path and to a beautiful, slightly remote area of the park. |
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"Plus this would get you off the beaten path and to a beautiful, slightly remote area of the park."
Ryan, why would ANYONE want to do that when they can stand in line at one of the Hidden Valley climbs that everyone does over and over and over again? What were you even thinking? |
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Twister is in Indian Cove, a great well protected 11A sport route. Ask Todd Gordon for directions. |
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Bebop Tango 11a. On the solsby face. Hidden gem! True sport climb. Bolted, overhanging huecos to a slightly overhung crimpy face. Amazing locale... Its like it don't belong in el Arbor at all :) |
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Blackjack (10d) is literally right off the road in Lost Horse and really good. For some strange reason nobody does it, but it's a fun route. |
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EBGB!!! |
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I don't know if this applies to the sport routes at Jtree but the trad route ratings were done awhile back and feel about two grades off the newer ratings imo. I climbed 5.8's that felt like 5.10's everywhere else. Anybody else share this opinion? |