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Joshua Tree route recommendations
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Sep 4, 2014
Jackson and I at Smith Rocks
I am super surprised that the original poster is so defensive about the advise he is getting from locals to JTree. We don't know or really care how hard you may or may not be able to climb. YOU asked for advice. I have climbed 10 years and follow up 11s and 12s but I am not so cocky that I think I can onsight or even RP that hard in JTree. It would be irresponsible for us not to give fair warning about the routes. One month of leading is NOT an experienced trad leader, I don't care who you are or where you are from. If you don't want people to know how little experience you have next time just ask for route suggestions at the rating you think you are going to climb. When you live in JTree and have to read in the local paper about "experienced" climbers who die every year, it makes you wonder how much "experience" they had. Good Luck! Carey De Luca
From Yucca Valley, Ca
Joined Jul 17, 2007
10 points
Sep 4, 2014
Half dome Cables
Cody P wrote:
Im planning a trip back to Joshua Tree in October and was hoping to get some recommendations for the best climbs from people in the know. Im looking for several 10-'s a few 10's and two or three 10+'s, and maybe a really nice 11-. Preferably trad with no R ratings (classic sport routes will be considered, though). My girl and I are new leaders and are looking to try on-sights and RP's during the week. Any input would be very much appreciated. EXCEPT YOUR OPINIONS ON MY ABILITIES Thanks


Fixed
Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
Joined Mar 6, 2010
804 points
Sep 4, 2014
Cody P wrote:
My girlfriend is brand new <1 yr and she already leads 10 sport without any issue. Damn right she's gonna lead in Joshua, under my careful guidance, of course


Assuming this is not a troll, this actually scares me... the part that says "damn right she's gonna lead" and "under my careful guidance". I'm sure stuff like this happens all the time, but now you've put it in writing and I have to comment.

I have a daughter and there is no way in hell I'd let her lead in Josh "guided" by someone who is also a new leader and seems to be focused more on chasing numbers than safety. Do what you will with yourself, but please be careful what situation you put your girlfriend in. You are causing great worry in dads like me.
Legion
Joined Oct 13, 2010
92 points
Sep 4, 2014
I love these threads. Not because of the complaining but because I am excited for JT season and love looking up the routes people suggest. Keep them coming. Steve_Sil.
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined May 10, 2012
26 points
Sep 4, 2014
practice cliffs
Steve_Sil. wrote:
I love these threads. Not because of the complaining but because I am excited for JT season and love looking up the routes people suggest. Keep them coming.



this!
brian burke
From la, ca
Joined Nov 2, 2013
75 points
Sep 4, 2014
railroad gin v0 FA. JOE DE LUCA
Put on you're big boy panties and climb some of the best climbs in the park.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly 5.10a
Fly Away 5.10d
La Belle Katchina 5.10b
Poodleboy 5.10b
One Arm Giant 5.10d
Between a Rock and a Hard Place 5.10b
Ipecac 5.11a
El Rey 5.10 c/d
Maneater 5.10d
Flared Bare 5.10
Comfortably Numb 5.11
If Looks Could Kill 5.10
Emotional Rescue 5.12

Or if you are used to trad climbing in Red Rocks, The Bong 5.4.
Joe De Luca
From yucca valley
Joined Oct 24, 2012
43 points
Sep 5, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Joe, good list...... And oh so true....

But come on... 5.4???

Any hardball leader, honed on the stone of RR, a 5.11 type, could maybe do Mike's Book.
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
212 points
Sep 5, 2014
Birds and Beards
What a dick. kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
264 points
Sep 5, 2014
Thanks joe.
I've got my list.
Cody P
Joined Apr 13, 2013
20 points
Sep 5, 2014
Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.
I have to agree with Legion.

I was once thought rather highly of my rock skills, sport climbing on limestone. So fit for a new challenge, my partner acquired a rack of friends. So we head to the Oklahoma granite, where they have this sick definition of "Run Out", and had this odd thing called old school ratings? At the time we're crushing 10's! So let's 'warm up' on a classic granite splitter 5.8! 2.5 hours, 3 leader changes, and 17 placements set, we and finally reached the anchor. Enter Drew, who's projecting mid 12's, breaking in his shiny new rack of BD's. He'll show that Dihedral who's boss, it's only a 5.6 after all. He was only slightly more successful, only requiring 45 minutes to climb 60'. We all drove home thoroughly spanked, humbled, and lucky to have survived. Take what you will from that. I use it as a cautionary tale.
Craig Childre
From Lubbock, Texas
Joined Aug 28, 2006
4,831 points
Sep 5, 2014
Coarse and buggy , one of the nicest corners in Joshua Tree , pretty easy to set up a TR on it .

Good Luck , I think the crux of the trip would be climbing with my girlfriend full time lol !
vincent L.
From Redwood City
Joined Jan 1, 2005
617 points
Sep 5, 2014
Ha that's funny!
I watched my buddy clv horse and buggy in February. The thin gear scares me, otherwise I might give it a go.
Cody P
Joined Apr 13, 2013
20 points
Sep 5, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
vincent L. wrote:
Coarse and buggy , one of the nicest corners in Joshua Tree , pretty easy to set up a TR on it .


Vincent.... its to bad all these fine JT climbs now have top rope set ups.

Gets way to many folks on fragle climbs, IMHO.

Craig Childre..... good story. Comming home humbled, is a great motavator.


Cody P.... good luck, have fun. I look fwd to the trip report.
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
212 points
Sep 5, 2014
heart of darkness. as straight fwd as gear goes in josh.


to troll or not to troll
to troll or not to troll
pkeds
From Hermosa Beach, CA
Joined Feb 3, 2006
21 points
Sep 5, 2014
More detail on the dates in Oct please, I want to watch. will smith
From boulder
Joined Jan 16, 2008
41 points
Sep 5, 2014
After all this I most certainly will give a trip report.
Maybe you'll read about it in the local paper!

Thanks all,

I got the list I wanted cause you just couldn't help yourselves.

I'll see you right here in November--
A more humble and experienced "Cody P"

Maybe I'll even use the mp tick list on all of these sensational climbs!

Peace an Love
Cody P
Joined Apr 13, 2013
20 points
Sep 5, 2014
Next year I'll ask for 11s and a 12? Maybe? Cody P
Joined Apr 13, 2013
20 points
Sep 5, 2014
Birds and Beards
Cody P wrote:
Thanks all, I got the list I wanted cause you just couldn't help yourselves.


- Asks for more experienced climbers to share their knowledge.

- More experienced climbers share their knowledge freely and give added advice against common misperceptions because they care for their fellow climbers.

- Tells more experienced climbers he fooled them into giving him their knowledge by exploiting their ego and arrogance.

- More experienced climbers shake their heads and hope they don't have to help with the carry-out or have to overhear the inevitable personal and/or relationship breakdown.

Edit: also might be a new record for deleting douchy posts that have already been quoted by more experienced climbers.
kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
264 points
Sep 5, 2014
tanuki
mountainproject.com/v/whats-th...

The awesomeness continues.
NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
Sep 5, 2014
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"
This thread is fucking classic. Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Joined May 6, 2010
90 points
Sep 5, 2014
Dreams of Wild Turkeys
More Monkey Than Funky, loved it, good gear all the way except for maybe the top bit Johnny Y
From California
Joined Nov 15, 2012
666 points
Sep 6, 2014
At the BRC
Cody P wrote:
I hope to onsight every route I get on. I've been training really hard and expect to have much success.


Probably following the 4 plan, so how could he fail?
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
200 points
Sep 6, 2014
mmmm....tree
January '81? As epic as 25 feet of climbing gets,a...
January '81? As epic as 25 feet of climbing gets,at least for a punk ass hippy from St Louis
More Monkey Than Funky
Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Joined Oct 4, 2001
177 points
Sep 7, 2014
...
"But wait--no advice or wisdom to impart? ".

Consider putting in a request to Mercy Air and let them know the dates you'll be there.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Sep 7, 2014
Hey Cody P. What's your girlfriends #? Tug
Joined Jul 8, 2007
6 points


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