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Joshua Tree Finger Cracks
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By Colin Parker
Administrator
From Idyllwild, CA
Feb 24, 2013
Bouldering in Joshua Tree

I searched the forums and didn't see a thread like this so here goes...

I've been to Joshua Tree several times but have mostly found slabs and hand cracks in the moderate grades. I since moved to Oregon and have fallen in love with the basalt splitter finger cracks up there. So, for my upcoming trip to Josh, I would love to test myself on some finger cracks in the 5.8-5.10+ range. Any advice?

Thanks!


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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 24, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

I can suggest some amazing finger racks north if j-tree.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Feb 24, 2013
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Tax Man is what you seek....


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By Dave E.
From washington
Feb 24, 2013
me on the last pitch of sunblessed

sphincter quits-.9+ pg
semi tough-.10+
martin quits-.10
whats it to you-.10+ pg-13
perfect fingers-.10-
looney tunes-.9


theres a few to get ya started, the first four are all in the real hidden valley


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By Ryan Hill
From Oakland, CA
Feb 24, 2013

My first two finger cracks were:

Tossed Green
Right Baskerville Crack

Over at Hound Rock/Baskerville Rock in the Quail Springs area.

Both are 5.10a, Tossed Green was a little bit harder for me. They have a variety of sizes, but I remember the meat of each climb being fingers. Nice setting, good pro, and a perfect introduction to finger cracks.


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By adam brink
From Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2013
Arlo in all his magnificence.

Rubicon! Sustained fingers splitting a cool tombstone like rock. Easily one of the best routes in J-Tree.

rubicon, 10c
rubicon, 10c


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By Tim Heid
From Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 24, 2013
Entering the crux section. <br /> <br />Photo: M. Rangel

+1 for Rubicon. While over there in Split Rocks, make sure to do Bird of Fire as well.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 25, 2013

Here are some to get you going:

Uncle Fester: 10+, splitter tips to fingers. Low crux, protects well.

Wedlock: 11a (soft for 5.11, wouldn't argue with 10d). Fantastic. Unexplicably gets no stars in the older guidebooks. Splitter fingers to a cool giant chockstone belay.

Rubicon: 10c. Wide hands to an arching, mostly fingers crack. Great rock, great pro, great climbing.

Martin Quits: 10c. Reachy, but bomber fingers, easing after the initial 10' or so. Short, but most stuff in JT is.

Exorcist: 10a. Splitter fingers to a one move bolted face crux

Perfect Fingers: 10-. Splitter mostly fingers to a flare.

Cut Thin to Win: 10c (soft, probably 10a/b). Splitter fingers on a slabby wall with a few helpful face holds.

Touch and Go: 9. Cool double finger cracks for the first half.

Bird of Fire: 10a. Fingers to hands. A little sporty getting to the first protection. Do before or after Wedlock, it's right around the corner.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 25, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Rubicon.... for sure.

The Left Mell crack. EDIT: The Right Mel... Oh heck... you do the hike, do both.

Baskerville EDIT: The Right one.

Wantaknobe Wall (sp???)

Wanger Banger .... rattley fingers for me... just the wrong size, makes it very cool.

EDIT: To add, Working Overtime.  9

same formation as Women's work never done.



Have fun


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 25, 2013
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

+1 for Rubicon. Super sweet pitch.


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By rob.calm
From Loveland, Colorado
Feb 25, 2013
Mother #1 on the Nautilus at Vedauwoo. Rob is calm on this happy offwidth

Rubicon is nice but someone has to mention

Equinox

r.c


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By Ryan Curry
Feb 25, 2013

Equinox is one of the best finger splitters I've ever encountered. Worth the drive and hike to throw a TR on it, at least.


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By Robbie Brown
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 25, 2013
Jumping across the mace gap with a PBR

Sail Away
Rubicon
tax man
maybe even illusion dweller


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 25, 2013
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

Another vote for Illusion Dweller. Enough finger jams on that and super classic.

Equinoz is definitely on my list but a good bit harder than the up to 10+ the OP was asking about.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 25, 2013

Guy Keesee wrote:
The Left Mell crack. Baskerville Wantaknobe Wall (sp???) Wanger Banger .... rattley fingers for me... just the wrong size, makes it very cool. Have fun


Left Mel isn't a fingercrack (neither is right Mel). Right Mel (which is actually the crack on the left) has a single tips move off the ground to face climbing.

R Baskerville, also doesn't really climb like a fingercrack.

Wangerbanger...only fingers are at the very top coming out of the second pod, and the route is a full number harder than the OP asked for.

Wataknobe...also not a fingercrack. The business is a single rattley or flaring fist move about 10' off the ground to low angle easy rambling.

I know you've spent tons of time out here Guy, but your list leaves a little to be desired. And for people putting Equinox on there....when did 12c become 10+? Might as well add Vector, Asteroid Crack, and Stingray if you're going to ignore the stated difficulty range.


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By 858jason
Feb 25, 2013

A Woman's Work Is Never Done, goes from tight hands to tips, 5.10b.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 25, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Will... so I stand corrected. sorry.

My brain is a butt fuzzed, after all Josh Climbs just get sort of blurry cause most are sort of the same.

But I do recall walking away from all the climbs I listed, with bloody, sore fingers.

Cheers, and happy climbing 2 You

EDIT: fuzzy memory, so I pulled out GB and notes, edited some for clarity, the climbs I recommended are all good .... maybe the finger sections are short... but worthwhile. And most never have lines.

And to the OP.... enjoy yourself Josh is way different from most places to climb. I quit going regulary about 15 years ago cause of the Nazi NPS .....the place has changed for the worse but still pretty special.

And... I think you should try Wanger Banger.... if you can climb those slick, continuous, long cracks, you will most likely be able to send it, cause it's short and sweet.


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 25, 2013
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013

Ok Will; Vector!


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By Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 25, 2013
me (about to sneeze)

Check out Heart of Darkness. Shouldn't be missed.
www.mountainproject.com/v/heart-of-darkness/105725659


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By Richard Shore
Feb 25, 2013
Eichorns Pinnacle

+1000 points for Will S, the voice of reason. A whole bunch of C- students responding here who don't read the whole question before answering.

Heart of Darkness = finger crack? Maybe if you have #0.75/1 camalot-sized fingers... but I'd say NO.

Some finger-crack obscurities in case you're looking for some off-the-beaten-path adventure:

Natural Selection 5.10d/11a.

Cactus Cooler 5.10b. Next to the popular Taken for Granite 5.8 and 200 Motels 5.8, both of which have lots of finger jamming with some variety.

If you make it out towards Wedlock/Bird of Fire, another good finger crack lies in the corridor in between those two - Crack #4 5.10.

Piggle Pug 5.10c on South Astrodome.

Frontal Lobotomy 5.10b (second pitch

Magnetic Woose 5.10b

Indian Cove:
The Castrum 5.10a
Right V Crack 5.10b
Campfire Girl 5.8 (first half to rap anchor)

Geo Tour Road:
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market 5.10d
Waugh Crack 5.10c


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By Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
Feb 25, 2013
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.

Yeah man, gotta respect that op....

I think Rubicon is the best that has been mentioned that I've been on as far as the "fingercrack" aspect is concerned. Sustained, solid finger locks. Sail Away has a few and is good for the grade. Both are really popular. But yeah, most "fingercracks" are going to be at least 5.10 so that's why everyone is posting hard stuff I'd say (not sure where the nonfngercracks came from). They're just so good it's easy to do!

I remember Popular Mechanics had a couple really nice fingerlocks in the corner. It's 5.9 and a great route regardless.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 25, 2013
OTL

The upper section of Colorado Crack has fun fingers. One of the few <5.10 options.


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By x15x15
Feb 26, 2013

Heaven Can Wait is great... Can't believe its been missed.


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By Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 27, 2013
me (about to sneeze)

My bad... (I guess) Here's the description for Heart of Darkness from Moutain Project:

Description
A striking splitter on perfect, varnished rock that runs from fingers through small hands (this route favors those with smaller hands). The unique location and high quality rock make this a three (out of five) star route; were it longer this would garner more stars.

I agree with the description. Starts with fingers and works through thin hands. Excellent route. Just take a look at the posted pics.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 27, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Nelson's fingers are .75- #1 cam size......

just saying.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 27, 2013

Richard has some gems in that list. Cedric's is fantastic, if a little sequential, and Piggle Pug is very good, although I remember it as a lieback (which means nothing, I've only done it once and it was over 5 years ago).

Will have to check out that Crack#4, I've done maybe half a dozen others in that corridor (Grounder, #5, #6, etc), but not that one. I vaguely recall hearing something about manky fixed pro at the crux?

If you aren't particular about style, the best climbing you could probably do in the desired range is to just go to Vector and end when the crack pinches off (walk around top and rap in to clean your gear), or TR it. It's probably mid 10 up to that point (the 5.11 crux is the facey stuff at the end), and the crack is some sweet action.


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