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Josh Wharton - Black Canyon - NO HELMET

Original Post
John Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 150

This video shows Wharton's most recent achievement of free climbing all routes in the Black Canyon.

climbing.com/video/video-jo…

This is a great achievement, and I do not wish to take away from that.

However, I would like to get the climbing community's opinion on him not wearing a helmet.

My first thoughts are, why the FUCK wouldn't you wear a helmet? Especially in the Black?!

They show him holding his baby, and talking about how he took a sharp rock to his forehead and almost died from it cutting his rope...

Then they show him almost getting wiped out by a 2-ton rock, without wearing a helmet.

I just don't understand... maybe someone can help me make sense of this

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

You think a helmet would help with a "2-ton rock"?

Or with a rope getting cut?

Ian Cavanaugh · · Ketchum, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 620

climbing helmets dont do much. true they are better than nothing but unlike a motorcycle helmet of football helmet, they are only rated for a top down impact. Really only meant to help from rock falls. a massive 2 ton block would not stand a chance, nor would your neck. There are many situations where the party member involved in and injured in a climbing accident was wearing a helmet. They just dont protect as much as many think.

phil wortmann · · Colorado Springs, Co. · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 1,186

It's his choice. period.

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

His choice. Seems like an easy one to cut some potential for massive injury, curious too why he would not, but then again, i've climbed plenty of trad lines sans helmet, but in the black... i'd have one on for sure.

wouldn't help with a 2 ton block, but that could have easily been a 3 pound block, and it could have nailed him, in which case a helmet would have been a very good thing.

John Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 150

It may not help against a 2-ton rock or cut rope.
But it would help against taking a sharp rock to the forehead...
It would also help if he took a fall and banged his head.

Rock climbing helmets may "not do much" but the provide some level of protection for minimal cost. I mean, are you arguing that since it does not protect against everything, then it doesn't make sense to wear it?

And yes, it's his choice. But what if he had an accident and became brain damaged where a helmet would have protected against? Then you say to his baby daughter, "Oh it was his choice to not wear the helmet?" Great explanation.

Dylan Cousins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 156

Because Josh Wharton's skull is made of carbide steel from the nails he eats for breakfast.

John Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 150
Dylan Cousins wrote:Because Josh Wharton's skull is made of carbide steel from the nails he eats for breakfast.
This, I think, has satisfied my discontent.
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

...or just mind your own business.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Josh Janes wrote:...or just mind your own business.
^^^+1
John Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 150
Dave Holliday wrote: Josh is an active user of this site. Why don't you ask him? j wharton
Ah.. thank you. I will.
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Josh Janes wrote:...or just mind your own business.
I'd agree if the OP was asking why he doesn't shave his balls. But when you are a sponsored athlete being filmed performing the said sport, you've put yourself out there & it's not an unreasonable question.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Maybe he didn't want to..? That's the explanation i use.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Go ahead and wag your finger at him but it's like asking why does someone solo, why does someone high line, why does someone base jump, why does...... . Who cares? Even if you see it as irresponsible.

Karsten Duncan · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,571
Josh Janes wrote:...or just mind your own business.
YES!!!

Climbing is inherently dangerous. So, if you are risk averse don't do it at all. Beyond that there is a spectrum from toproping at the the gym all the way to free soloing at your limit below hanging seracs with a huge storm approaching.

Where each of us draws the line on safety and what you judge as safe is a personal issue. I will never get why people obsess about a helmetless climber but never seem to rank about much riskier things in climbing.
jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

As long as the climber doesn't expect a rescue (from SAR or any other parties on the wall) I guess it up to him if he wants to be grossly irresponsible.

But I think it does become other peoples business pretty quickly if the climbers negligence leads to an injury that requires other climbers/public funding to extract them.

John Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 150
Karsten wrote: YES!!! Climbing is inherently dangerous. So, if you are risk averse don't do it at all. Beyond that there is a spectrum from toproping at the the gym all the way to free soloing at your limit below hanging seracs with a huge storm approaching. Where each of us draws the line on safety and what you judge as safe is a personal issue. I will never get why people obsess about a helmetless climber but never seem to rank about much riskier things in climbing.
Got it. I'm willing to swallow this one.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I guess it would be OK if someone gets whacked by a storm because they didn't check the weather or were slow or...over their heads..

As long as they have a helmet on ?

BULL

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10
john strand wrote:I guess it would be OK if someone gets whacked by a storm because they didn't check the weather or were slow or...over their heads.. As long as they have a helmet on ? BULL
Wow, talk about a straw man argument. Yeesh.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Thats great. I'm stoked your friend is okay. I have no issues with helmets, I own one and I use it when I feel it is helpful. I just don't know why we are talking about someone Else's choice to wear one or not.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

OK, I'll bite..

Some guys and gals have been climbing for a long time. A time before helmets were worn by every noob out there. So those peeps choose not to wear a helmet. They got through many days out and about without one so they choose to go without. Maybe Josh feels he doesn't need it but there's plenty reasons people don't wear them.

I myself don't wear a helmet snowboarding. I'm not carrying it on the skin up plus I feel I don't need it. I've been skiing since 92, a time when no one wore a helmet so I don't wear one.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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