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Josh and Dave's Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Baker and Josh Tofield
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Jerry Cagle on Aug 3, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Crux could be up high if you choose to do a direct finish.


Location 

The obvious crack system immediately left of Yurt Monkey. The top is face...


Protection 

Gear



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By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 3, 2008

STL II gives this a .8, but seems easier to me... There's a mental crux at the top if you don't cop out and skirt around to the left. I rarely see anyone on this one. Could be because of the challenge in getting down. You could thread the anchors on Yurt Monkey, but it's a PITA and there are often people climbing it. I left some slings and rap rings up there in a much easier position to rap from a couple of times in the past, but people have stolen them (yes, stolen A**H***...!)

By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 3, 2009

I climbed this straight up the buttress and did not find any good placements above the crack. The pro I did place was purely psychological. Be prepared to run out the entire top of this route.

By Matt Walker
Jan 11, 2009

i agree with david - your last piece is a solid #2 cam but the rope drag is heinous. the top is run out.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13

Like the climbers above I ended up running out the last third of the climb. Mellow territory but a fall could be ugly. Apparently a chickenhead can be slung as protection but I missed it.