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Swirley Boulder
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Amnesia 
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Jon's Arete 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,153
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Stretching for the jug...

Description 

Climbs the beautiful, powerful arete and face right of the tree. Sit start with a right hand jug beneath the arete and a left hand sloper (under the roof in the crack) with your feet underneath the roof. Pull up left hand to a sloping seam, heelhook with the right foot and bump up successive, worsening crimps near the arete with your right hand to a good jug. Stand tall from the jug to reach the lip and topout.

Usually wet for days after rain.

An easier version, although somewhat awkward, uses the sloping seam with the right hand allowing you to pull up to some flakes behind the tree.

Location 

This is on the front side of the Swirley Boulder next to the trail. Getting down from the top is an adventure, either involving climbing down trees, jumping, or downclimbing something easy. There used to be a wooden ladder that has since fallen apart, and there are remains of a rope tied to the tree on the left.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2015
By Tom McCabe
Jul 5, 2008

I got on this for the first time yesterday. There wasn't much chalk, on account of all the rain, so I figured a different sequence than the one detailed here. I got the slope with my right and went straight up to the higher good edge with the left. Is this off route? I'll try the other sequence, but I was just curious.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Dec 1, 2008

Going straight up the left side of the face with the edges behind the tree is another problem.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jan 12, 2009
rating: V7- 7A+

FYI: A key foot broke recently, making the first move harder for short folk. Taller types can use a lower foot.
By eddysamson
Apr 25, 2015
rating: V8 7B

I know this page is supposed to be for the climb that goes up the right side of the face, but it seems like there is actually a separate arete climb that strictly climbs the arete. Why does this have arete in the name if it doesnt really use the arrete?

Also what is the climb that uses the left edges? I could almost do that today but I kept dabbing the tree.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 26, 2015
rating: V8 7B

The climb that goes up the arete starts as for 'Jon's Arete' and after hitting the good hold that marks the end of the crux on Jon's, it busts right and heads up the arete. I don't think it has a name, its supposed to be in the v9-v10 range I believe, it really needs some cleaning before it is climbable.

The route that climbs the edges to the left s called Slash, i believe it goes at v6.
By eddysamson
Apr 26, 2015
rating: V8 7B

Thank you Matt! I saw a chalked sharp circular side pull low on the arete around right from the only feature on the arete this climb usually uses, could that be an option for a different start for the arete?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 27, 2015
rating: V8 7B

I am not sure what that is for, it certainly seems there could be a direct start to the arete!
By eddysamson
May 1, 2015
rating: V8 7B

Got some video of this climb last weekend here it is:

youtu.be/JncoK3_IJig
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Aug 9, 2015
rating: V8 7B

I started far more direct than you did Eddy, your right hand start hold was my left hand start hold, as per the description. Starting like you did you could just reach up left hand to the good holds of 'Slash' off the start, seems like a different climb. As always the man himself Christian Prellwitz has a video, and I used the exact same beta as he did, found independently for once (I steal his beta all the time).

By eddysamson
Aug 9, 2015
rating: V8 7B

Its funny you say that and link that video Ian, because Tyler, the guy with blonde hair in that video, was the guy who showed me the beta for it. He did admit he wasn't 100% sure on the start, though.
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Aug 10, 2015
rating: V8 7B

Oh you did the route obviously, wasn't being disrespectful whatsoever, sorry if I came off that way, just this route is so close to being contrived, but if you start at the listed start holds it's a singular route, and is very good, and I don't think is any harder or easier than starting where you did and using the beta you did, just maybe a bit longer.

Tyler Hogan is a dirty enormously strong beta monster who should not be trusted, except that his beta always works. . .
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 11, 2015
rating: V8 7B

I concur that Tyler Hogan can't be trusted. And his beta only works if your wingspan is like 6'5", which yours happens to be. :)
By eddysamson
Aug 11, 2015
rating: V8 7B

Oh no offense taken Ian I actually think that was funny lol. His beta is definitely different though, he showed me what he does on Da Luvah and Uncle Climax and I couldn't do either his way. I figured out Da Luvah's start on my own and got closer to hitting the dyno on Climax with my own beta than he did.
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