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Stretching for the jug...
Climbs the beautiful, powerful arete and face right of the tree. Sit start with a right hand jug beneath the arete and a left hand sloper (under the roof in the crack) with your feet underneath the roof. Pull up left hand to a sloping seam, heelhook with the right foot and bump up successive, worsening crimps near the arete with your right hand to a good jug. Stand tall from the jug to reach the lip and topout.
Usually wet for days after rain.
An easier version, although somewhat awkward, uses the sloping seam with the right hand allowing you to pull up to some flakes behind the tree.
This is on the front side of the Swirley Boulder next to the trail. Getting down from the top is an adventure, either involving climbing down trees, jumping, or downclimbing something easy. There used to be a wooden ladder that has since fallen apart, and there are remains of a rope tied to the tree on the left.
|By Tom McCabe|
Jul 5, 2008
I got on this for the first time yesterday. There wasn't much chalk, on account of all the rain, so I figured a different sequence than the one detailed here. I got the slope with my right and went straight up to the higher good edge with the left. Is this off route? I'll try the other sequence, but I was just curious.
From: Manchester, NH
Dec 1, 2008
Going straight up the left side of the face with the edges behind the tree is another problem.
From: Portland, ME
Jan 12, 2009
FYI: A key foot broke recently, making the first move harder for short folk. Taller types can use a lower foot.