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Jolt 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joel O'Connell 1988
Page Views: 10,252
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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BETA PHOTO: Jolt.

Description 

DO NOT CLIMB JOLT. DUE TO ROCKFALL IT IS UNSAFE AND/OR NON EXISTENT.

Many call this the best 5.10 at Rumney. Wildly-exposed climbing interesting fun moves on good holds, it would be hard to find anything negative to say about this climb. Its main feature is a crazy rock fin jutting out 80 feet above the ground you will learn to love this feature or you will find yourself catching big air.

Starting on less-interesting, moderate moves you will eventually gain a stance looking up at the business, which is the last 50 feet of the climb. Follow the bolts heading up and right on crimps and underclings until you are following the very edge of the rock fin. At this point, you will be forced to smear on small foot holds right on the edge of the flake with nothing under you for what seems to be a long, long way. A few, less-exposed moves on crimps lead to the top and a nice ledge to sit on and take in the view.

Location 

From the approach trail after climbing over the big log, head down and left to the low point of the crag, the fin will be above you. Jolt is the far left bolt line at this section starting just above a flat boulder forming a slab at the base of the cliff.

Warning! Do not hang out on the flat spot underneath this route and Dolt. You are in the death zone! The whole fin is exfoliating and rotting and dropping pieces, sometimes big pieces that can easily kill you. Warn others and wear a helmet while belaying. Wait your turn well off to the side. Seriously!

Protection 

11 bolts + 2 quick clips. 60m rope needed!!!


Photos of Jolt Slideshow Add Photo
On lockdown.
BETA PHOTO: On lockdown.
love the exposure in these shots!
love the exposure in these shots!
jakob high up on jolt
jakob high up on jolt
Working my way up the flake
Working my way up the flake
Tim at the top.
Tim at the top.
Autumn at Hinterlands
Autumn at Hinterlands
starting the exposed part of the climb
starting the exposed part of the climb
Jolt is just a little exposed.
Jolt is just a little exposed.
The fin of Jolt/Dolt. Taken April 2011
The fin of Jolt/Dolt. Taken April 2011
Top of Jolt on 5-18-2013 taken at roughly the same angle as the beta pic
Top of Jolt on 5-18-2013 taken at roughly the same...
Me rappelling of jolt as Shep looks on.
Me rappelling of jolt as Shep looks on.
Me climbing Jolt
Me climbing Jolt
Charlie grabbing the jug weirdly.
Charlie grabbing the jug weirdly.
New signage below the route.
BETA PHOTO: New signage below the route.
just for fun... otey onsighting, and my feet making an apearance...
just for fun... otey onsighting, and my feet makin...

Comments on Jolt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 15, 2014
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 22, 2007

I would certainly call this a four star route, however the bottom of the route is a little bit dirty with some small but loose rocks on a lower ledge. Be careful pulling your rope as I've pulled down more than I wanted to.
By Spiro
May 26, 2008

Great route, do it!
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

I agree with Spiro
By NicoleKurth
From: Londonderry, NH
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

so the last time i climbed this i needed 12 or so quick draws plus the anchors... did they add bolts?
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yeah, beware: I'm sure there are more than 10 bolts. Also, the 'crimps' mentioned in the description are generally more like finger jugs or big, positive crimps. Either way, the holds are very good and forgiving on this climb, so don't let anything scare you off. Do it. Classic.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 23, 2008

What did I miss on this route? Seriously, it seemed no harder than 5.8
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 23, 2008

the route has seen some broken holds so maybe it got easier... it was always soft for 10b anyway... that would be funny if it went all the way down to 5.8...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 20, 2010

I climbed this one on trad gear today just for fun... i recommend you keep clipping those bolts unless you like adventure :) the loose rock seems looser when placing gear behind it haha...
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
May 17, 2010

fantastic climb. the underling sequence on edge of the fin is unreal. I actually thought dolt was a little bit harder and a little headier.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 20, 2010

i have to get back on dolt... back when i did it it felt like standard 5.9 climbing... but i remember many loose holds, perhaps some of them fell off making it harder...
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.9/10a seems about right...though maybe only 10a if you are trying to avoid using hollow (copiously chalked) jugs.

I know I'm gonna take a bath for this, but I gotta say, I thought this route was mediocre at best. It has a few nice moves, and yes, the exposed fin is indeed a cool feature, but I thought the route was greatly marred by a lot of loose rock. In addition, the chossy, dirty ledge took away from the continuity of the climb. I probably wouldn't stop to do the route again.
By SmithBro
From: North Wilmot, New Hampshire
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Originaly 10d. We might be remembering climbing it with 3 bolts. Felt 10d then, feels 10a now. Some long runners/draws helpfull.
By S. Neoh
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Did the "new" start for the first time today. It is a nice long route now. Exposure is spectacular and getting to the top is now a lot less stressful than back in the day (as a mixed route with cam in flaring crack). To keep rope drag manageable, put a shoulder-length sling on the fourth bolt, a long draw on the fifth, and a LONG draw on the last.
Not as high in quality as Underdog, IMHO.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 17, 2012

For repeat ascents, there may be better routes move wise (I actually like climbing Dolt better), but for an onsight the exposed feature is great and shouldn't be missed.
By tgsmith
From: Boulder, Co
May 10, 2012

Can this be rapped with 60m rope?
By S. Neoh
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yes, 60m. Regardless, please knot the ends of the rope to be safe.
By Kelsey Stavseth
Apr 28, 2013

Just a reminder, Jolt has loose rock! A piece broke under foot just under the anchors yesterday and landed near a crowd of people. Always wear a helmet when belaying!
By Derek Jf
From: Onset, MA
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

@JoelGeerling yah? climbed this last month?
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
2 days ago

Jolt, R.I.P. Gonzo. Game over. Nada. No more Jolt.