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joining lines for rappel
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By jeb013
From Portland
Mar 21, 2014

I know thus has been discussed to death but anyone ever joined a 7.5 dynamic half/twin rope with a 10mm single for rappelling purposes?

If so edk or fishermans?


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Mar 21, 2014
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

IMHO don't use an EDK, the ropes are too drastically different sizes. Use a grapevine (double or triple fishermans), Fig 8 on a bight w/retraced 8, or a sheep bend. HTH.


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By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Mar 21, 2014
CoR

edk is quicker and has less chance of snagging. I like to tie two back to back with a one foot tail just because.


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Mar 22, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

I'm not convinced that tying two EDK's makes it any less likely to snag than a fisherman's. Any EDK fear is irrational. See rgold's posts in this thread.

www.mountainproject.com/v/joining-unequal-diameter-ropes-for>>>


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By bearbreeder
Mar 22, 2014

Yr fine

DAV 2005
DAV 2005


Leave 2 feet of tail, and if yr really worried use 2 EDKs snug

;)


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By Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Mar 22, 2014

Have regularly joined a 6mm with a 10+mm using the EDK. The failure mode is the EDK capsizes towards the tails. 18 inch tails. Tied so the skinny has to roll over the fat to capsize. Lately I also tie a backup knot with skinny tail around the fat tail.


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Mar 22, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

Bill Lawry wrote:
Have regularly joined a 6mm with a 10+mm using the EDK. The failure mode is the EDK capsizes towards the tails. 18 inch tails. Tied so the skinny has to roll over the fat to capsize. Lately I tie backup knot with skinny tail around the fat tail.


Good photos of this in the thread I linked to above.


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By Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Mar 22, 2014

Agreed. Excellent photos in that thread.


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By David Coley
From UK
Mar 22, 2014

Ryan Nevius wrote:
Good photos of this in the thread I linked to above.


Hi, do you know of any pull test data that compares the two ways of tying it as shown in the photos? And do we know how they tied it in the DAV test?
Thanks.


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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 22, 2014
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard

I don't know of comparisons. There is this: www.mountainproject.com/v/edk-destructive-testing-of-differe>>>


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Mar 22, 2014

jeb013 wrote:
I know thus has been discussed to death

So why bring it up again, as opposed to just using the search box? You are right, this has been covered a million times, and every answer made in this post so far has already been made by someone else in a duplicate thread. But in short, yes you can join dissimilar diameters.


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By jeb013
From Portland
Mar 22, 2014

Tell me how to search using the app. I haven't figured it out yet.

jeb


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By jeb013
From Portland
Mar 22, 2014

I doesn't matter at this point. I'm home and it worked exactly how those that responded with information said it would.

Thanks for your help. ;)


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By Kyro
Mar 23, 2014

How do subject like this get brought up all the time. And pull testing?? Wtf are you rappelling with a cow or something lol


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Mar 23, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

Kyro wrote:
How do subject like this get brought up all the time. And pull testing?? Wtf are you rappelling with a cow or something lol


Based on the average weight of an adult, male steer, it's likely you'd still be fine.


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By Gunkiemike
Mar 23, 2014

Kyro wrote:
How do subject like this get brought up all the time. And pull testing?? Wtf are you rappelling with a cow or something lol


The image that came to mind when I saw the title of the thread wasn't a cow, but rather a DEAD HORSE.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Mar 24, 2014
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Two interlocking loops from a figure-8 on each rope.


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By Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Apr 5, 2014
Always use protection!

long live the mighty EDK!


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By john strand
From southern colo
Apr 5, 2014

TomCaldwell wrote:
Two interlocking loops from a figure-8 on each rope.

Yes


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Apr 5, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

TomCaldwell wrote:
Two interlocking loops from a figure-8 on each rope.


The technical term for this would be a Rethreaded Figure 8, or Flemish Bend. It's important to distinguish between this and an "Abnormal" Figure 8 (tied similar to how you'd tie an overhand), which can fail under small loads.


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By Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Apr 7, 2014
Always use protection!

The whole EDK failure under small loads thing is bogus, tests have been run and it takes a couple thousand pounds just to make the knot roll... with substantial tails you have nothing to worry about, plus less snag risk


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By Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Apr 7, 2014
Always use protection!

The whole EDK failure under small loads thing is bogus, tests have been run and it takes a couple thousand pounds just to make the knot roll... with substantial tails you have nothing to worry about, plus less snag risk


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Apr 7, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

Nathan Burns wrote:
The whole EDK failure under small loads thing is bogus, tests have been run and it takes a couple thousand pounds just to make the knot roll... with substantial tails you have nothing to worry about, plus less snag risk


If you're replying to me, you misread my statement. I said that an "abnormal" figure 8 can fail under small loads. An overhand is bomber, and what most people should be using most of the time.


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By Nathan Burns
From Dahlonega, GA
Apr 7, 2014
Always use protection!

Ryan Nevius wrote:
If you're replying to me, you misread my statement. I said that an "abnormal" figure 8 can fail under small loads. An overhand is bomber, and what most people should be using most of the time.

ahhh gotcha


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