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 ADVANCED
Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab
Routes Sorted
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Black Science S 
Chronic Bedwetter S 
Hesitation S 
Intensive Care T,S 
Johnson Route S 
Ladder Route T,S,TR 
Reality Check S 
Robertson Wall S 
Silver Left T 
Tunnel Vision T,S,TR 

Johnson Route 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: [Mike Johnson c.1990]
Page Views: 1,109
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Jan 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Brett starting the crux.

Description 

This route is easily located by finding the longish roof on the right side of the slab. Go up a short, unprotected slab (can be wet) to the extremely well-protected crux on the left side of the large roof. Curious move over the roof can be a straightforward mantel on two small, but postive crimpers, but more likely will involve a thrutching shin smear. The route moves slightly right past three more bolts on the slab above (solid 8, maybe 9-), and then back left to the bolted anchor. At least one book rates this 11a, same diff to me.

Protection 

4 or 5 QDs plus something for the bolted anchor.


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By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 8, 2002

If you are tall, you may find this route less agreeable. At least that is what I was thinking as I barked my shin really hard at the lip of the roof and then busted my you know what on the slab below even harder. Enjoy.
By Stewart M. Green
May 5, 2003

I established a second pitch to The Johnson Route in 1994. It continues up the slab above the 2-bolt ledge anchor past a couple bolts and a few 5.8ish moves to the top of the cliff.
By Adam Hicks`
May 11, 2003

I won't spew beta, but I found that while the roof took a lot of grunting on smallish holds, the shin bang was not necessary. I, of course, am not the tallest at 5'11", but made it quite clean. Oh yeah, and for the fun of it if you'd like you can move left after the third bolt to a funky, crimpy flake thing. I had intentions of clipping all four bolts, but being a hater of slab and lover of overhangs I opted to stray through the flake. This route is schweet!
By Adam Hicks`
Sep 18, 2003

I ... feel there's an important issue in our sport right now-that I climbed the Johnson route using only gear the other day. I did trend left to a flake below the belay ledge instead of continuing on the slab out right where bolts were definitely warranted and much needed, and I think this part of the climb is actually harder than the roof. But the flake out left was the perfect size for my green Alien, and probably the blue as well, and surely nuts would hold, and made for some interesting moves to the belay ledge.

If anything, it's a way to claim another 5.10d gear climb instead of a sport route. The roof protects really well, as you can undercling below it and place numerous stoppers and/or cams in a diagonal crack in the roof. Once over the roof, the flakes make for suspicious at best protection but will do through the easy climbing until one trends left to the flake.
By Stewart M. Green
Oct 6, 2003

....While I can see how you could climb it with some bits of gear, I do think this route works better as a bolted sport climb. Too much bolting is a problem in climbing these days. On most routes that I establish, I leave the gear placements...which is how we used to do it in the 1980s...and put bolts just where they're needed.
By Adam Hicks`
Nov 3, 2003

....Also, I want to say that it is a different climb with gear instead of bolts due to the trend left instead of following the bolts to the right. If I had bolted the climb ( I don't bolt, though) I might have bolted the right angling option but none of the beginning of the route. The right angling option (slab) is fantastic, however, and is a cool enough route that the bolts don't seem out of place.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 25, 2010

Awesome sequence through the roof! I'm gonna have to man up and lead this next time.