Johnson Canyon Rock Climbing

Johnson Canyon (aka Cove Canyon), a major drainage of the North Wonderland, is located due south of the Short Wall and although a large area is fairly undeveloped as well as being somewhat hidden from view due to it's westerly orientation which parallels the hillside in front of it.

A landmark to help in locating the mouth of the canyon is the Euhedral (5.7) which climbs a large slab directly above the mouth of the canyon and is identifiable by it's two-tone appearance (dark rock lower & tan rock higher). Also at the mouth of the canyon is the large Split Boulder which is home to a few routes - Chute the Moon (5.6) and the Dirty Pinch (5.11a).

The first formation encountered in the canyon proper is RC Rock which is on the left and faces north. Three known routes are here including The Rand (5.10a), Gold Strike (5.11b) and Reallly Good (5.11c).

The next formation encountered in the canyon is Shuttle Rock (on the right) with Gabby's Shuttle (5.10c) a reminder of the old JT bar and it's services (which came after the Boom Boom Room but before the JT Saloon).

Once past Shuttle Rock the canyon opens up and becomes more complex with lots of rock visible. The large and attractive dark formation on the left is Ancient Kingdom, home to several moderate cracks including Carmania (5.7) and the classic Spanish Bayonet (5.9).

Further upcanyon is Cove Canyon Dome, a huge but seldom visited formation, with several three pitch routes on it including Cracked Actor (5.9) and The Flakes (5.9).

The upper reaches of Johnson Canyon has but one recorded route - Tied to the Whipping Post (5.11a) which involves an arduous approach up the canyon between Ancient Kingdom and Cove Canyon Dome.

The large south-facing walls across from Cove Canyon Dome and Ancient Kingdom hold the potential for numerous routes and there's at least one unnamed 5.12+ crack in this vicinity which offers a challenge for those willing to make the hike.