Johnny Rotten  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  007 on Oct 5, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The Best Crack Climb on the Second Buttress.

P1: Start in a crack below a 90 degree roof (very similar to Coffin Crack). Pull the roof via hands and then continue up another 10 feet of hands. Mantle a small ledge and then climb a weakness to a second roof. Move up and right (crux) of the roof and belay at a rusty chain anchor.

P2: Either climb a finger crack (direct route) or move to the right and climb a hands/fists, cornery/chimney feature thing.

Location 

This is just to the right of Journey through Gwondonaland.

Protection 

Standard rack, cams to 2 inches.