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Second Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angles Away T 
Back for Seconds T 
Big Top project S 
Chucky Cheese T 
Johnny Rotten T 
Journey through Gwondonaland T 
Left End Corners T 
Needs a Bolt T 
Slap Happy S 
Whatever T 
Unsorted Routes:

Johnny Rotten 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 321
Submitted By: 007 on Oct 5, 2011

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The Best Crack Climb on the Second Buttress.

P1: Start in a crack below a 90 degree roof (very similar to Coffin Crack). Pull the roof via hands and then continue up another 10 feet of hands. Mantle a small ledge and then climb a weakness to a second roof. Move up and right (crux) of the roof and belay at a rusty chain anchor.

P2: Either climb a finger crack (direct route) or move to the right and climb a hands/fists, cornery/chimney feature thing.


This is just to the right of Journey through Gwondonaland.


Standard rack, cams to 2 inches.

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