Pitch 1 (crux) is a classic steep finger crack. You can either rappel 90' from the top of this pitch or continue to the top with the second pitch of Flake Out (5.6) or Flakes of Wrath (5.9R). This climb is in the shade after mid-morning for most of the year.
Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap (100')
|By C Miller|
Jan 27, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solo up from the left via easy moves (5.4) over sketchy stacked blocks or climb directly (5.8) up to the base.
A clean left-facing corner gains a wedged block and the traverse right to the short but quality finger crack. The rarely done 2nd pitch climbs dirty face to the top of the wall, but most rap after doing the 1st pitch.
|By Nick Barczak|
May 22, 2009
A 70m rope will conveniently allow you to rappel from the 2-bolt anchor back down past the stacked blocks that C Miller describes and right to your packs.
The first pitch is one of my favorite pitches in Idyllwild. A must do!
|By Jesse Davidson|
From: san diego, ca
Aug 25, 2009
60 meters will get you comfortably off, as well, with a bit of down-scrambling
Aug 6, 2012
Excellent climbing but over too soon. 2" gear not needed.
|By Phil Esra|
Jun 30, 2014
In the shade well before Etude & Flower. Fun little route with a sketchy approach. 60m rap from the top puts you within a couple easy slab moves (to the climber's left) from the ground.